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Thread: New Idea??? Experimentation....

  1. #291
    Senior Member 1971Wedge's Avatar
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    Okay I posted this elsewhere, but just a thought, and probably a very good idea, cut yourself a piece of plastic tubing to cover that threaded center bolt inside your bowl to prevent possible nicks, scratches. Another member suggest also filing down that square nut at the bottom of the bowl as it too could cause scratches..I might pull mine out and use several layers of large diameter shrink tubing on the lower nut, maybe the threaded bolt, but probably plastic tubing there.

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    gssixgun (11-05-2009)

  3. #292
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    The threaded nut and bolt problem, is new to the tumblers and thank you for posting the easiest solution...

    The older tumbers actually have a venturi like cone in the center (think Bunt cake pan) so the razor CANNOT touch the bolt, but as we have heard the newer ones are more of a bowl...

    Thank you for sharing

  4. #293
    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    The threaded nut and bolt problem, is new to the tumblers and thank you for posting the easiest solution...

    The older tumbers actually have a venturi like cone in the center (think Bunt cake pan) so the razor CANNOT touch the bolt, but as we have heard the newer ones are more of a bowl...

    Thank you for sharing
    Mine has that thing too, it is ~ 1/2" to an inch high. I however find my razors above that level when I stop the tumbler. Is it possible that I use too much media? I fill it up to 1/2, and after I add polishing/rubbing compound the media expands to ~2/3 of the volume.
    My thought on the scratches I was getting was that the thread does that but since they were along the blade not across the width the only culprit would have been the nut.
    I just put rubber tubing on the threaded shaft- 1/4" ID which fits snugly and does not wobble at all.
    Stefan

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    Default sticky or tutorial?

    Is there a tutorial on this? I've been wading through the thread and can't find a link to one.

    I know you use walnut medium the first time around and corn cob media with steel polish the second time around. But what sort of polish/cleaner do you use in the walnut medium?

    robert

  6. #295
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Yes this thread is a book not, a thread any longer....
    If you start on page one you will find what you are looking for rather quickly, then skip ahead to about the last 5 pages to learn some of the newer tricks...

    Basically though
    1.) Walnut media + Turtle Wax Liquid Rubbing Compound
    2.) Corn Cob Media + Turtle Wax Liquid Polishing Compund

    Everything else is just more of the same....

  7. #296
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    Thank you for the recap Glen. I'm very much a newbie with no experience with any of the sort of tools and equipment you guys use so much of this stuff is a foreign language to me. I appreciate the translation...

    robert

  8. #297
    Senior Member Muirtach's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FloorPizza View Post
    Update on the Harbor Freight Ceramic Media (again):

    As mentioned before this stuff is loud, and very aggressive. I've done several razors in this media now, with amazing results, as well as no blade damage.

    If you don't mind waiting a few days, this stuff is capable of removing some pretty serious rust, scratches, stains, pitting, patina, defects, you name it. Just *one* day is enough to do a stained razor. Three to four days will do some pretty amazing things.

    Of course, all this comes with a big but(t)... I haven't been able to chuck a razor done in the ceramic media right into the walnut shells with good results. The walnut shells (at least the way mine are treated, I need to try other rouges/polishes) are not capable of removing the, uh, well, for lack of a better term, "sanding marks" that the ceramic media leaves in the steel. Glen (and others) have been able to get the walnut shells to remove 400 grit sanding marks, and I think if you're able to obtain that kind of result, it would probably remove the marks from the ceramic media. My walnut shells, however, aren't even capable of removing 800 grit sanding marks. I'm using the pre-treated Lyman Tufnut shells, fwiw.

    If you prefer to do it by hand, the ceramic media marks are easily removed with 800 grit paper. I said 400-600 previously, then tried 800 on the latest blade. Marks came right out. Guess I'll try an even finer grit next time...

    Several rock polishing sites recommend using stainless steel shot to polish up metal. Has anyone tried this with a razor yet? I'm thinking of buying some but it's kinda pricey.
    Just as a clarification. You mention in this post that you are using the ceramic, but the link you referenced just prior to that was for the resin pyramids. Which was it you had?

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    Any idea where I would get one in the UK? Sounds like a great idea using one and can't find any on this side of the pond.

    James

  10. #299
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    Ok ignore me, found that gunsmiths carry them here!

    James

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    took peices of my leftover sandpaper and cut them into small peices and threw them into the walnut mix.trying to speed up the process or eliminate sanding to 400.after eight hours results look promising.will post if it works.

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