Thread: New Idea??? Experimentation....

I found a Midway dealer in the UK about 10m from where I live finally got there last weekend I refused to buy the tumbler

Dealer Midway UK
£97.00 £42.34 Tumbler

£39.60 £21.83 Corn Cob

£00.00 £8.85 Carriage

£136.00 £73.02 Total

So I am sat waiting for a delivery from Midway UK (should arrive about the same time as the 3 Boker’s from e-bay so guess what’s going in) don’t know if all dealers jack up their prices to the same extent as far as I could see all of the tumbler’s he had Lyman etc where all over double the price of going direct so if you want a tumbler in the UK try going direct it may mean opening an account, other way is if you have family or friends state side get them to get it for you then ship it over not an option for me don’t know anyone over there

Update on the Harbor Freight Ceramic Media (again):

As mentioned before this stuff is loud, and very aggressive. I've done several razors in this media now, with amazing results, as well as no blade damage.

If you don't mind waiting a few days, this stuff is capable of removing some pretty serious rust, scratches, stains, pitting, patina, defects, you name it. Just *one* day is enough to do a stained razor. Three to four days will do some pretty amazing things.

Of course, all this comes with a big but(t)... I haven't been able to chuck a razor done in the ceramic media right into the walnut shells with good results. The walnut shells (at least the way mine are treated, I need to try other rouges/polishes) are not capable of removing the, uh, well, for lack of a better term, "sanding marks" that the ceramic media leaves in the steel. Glen (and others) have been able to get the walnut shells to remove 400 grit sanding marks, and I think if you're able to obtain that kind of result, it would probably remove the marks from the ceramic media. My walnut shells, however, aren't even capable of removing 800 grit sanding marks. I'm using the pre-treated Lyman Tufnut shells, fwiw.

If you prefer to do it by hand, the ceramic media marks are easily removed with 800 grit paper. I said 400-600 previously, then tried 800 on the latest blade. Marks came right out. Guess I'll try an even finer grit next time...

Several rock polishing sites recommend using stainless steel shot to polish up metal. Has anyone tried this with a razor yet? I'm thinking of buying some but it's kinda pricey.

Originally Posted by FloorPizza

Update on the Harbor Freight Ceramic Media (again):

As mentioned before this stuff is loud, and very aggressive. I've done several razors in this media now, with amazing results, as well as no blade damage.

If you don't mind waiting a few days, this stuff is capable of removing some pretty serious rust, scratches, stains, pitting, patina, defects, you name it. Just *one* day is enough to do a stained razor. Three to four days will do some pretty amazing things.

Of course, all this comes with a big but(t)... I haven't been able to chuck a razor done in the ceramic media right into the walnut shells with good results. The walnut shells (at least the way mine are treated, I need to try other rouges/polishes) are not capable of removing the, uh, well, for lack of a better term, "sanding marks" that the ceramic media leaves in the steel. Glen (and others) have been able to get the walnut shells to remove 400 grit sanding marks, and I think if you're able to obtain that kind of result, it would probably remove the marks from the ceramic media. My walnut shells, however, aren't even capable of removing 800 grit sanding marks. I'm using the pre-treated Lyman Tufnut shells, fwiw.

If you prefer to do it by hand, the ceramic media marks are easily removed with 800 grit paper. I said 400-600 previously, then tried 800 on the latest blade. Marks came right out. Guess I'll try an even finer grit next time...

Several rock polishing sites recommend using stainless steel shot to polish up metal. Has anyone tried this with a razor yet? I'm thinking of buying some but it's kinda pricey.

Just as a clarification. You mention in this post that you are using the ceramic, but the link you referenced just prior to that was for the resin pyramids. Which was it you had?

Any idea where I would get one in the UK? Sounds like a great idea using one and can't find any on this side of the pond.

James

Glen, using the red walnut media, how many days do you find you need to leave a razor in the tumbler in order to remove, say, 400 grit sanding scratches?

I must not be using the correct type of additive to my walnut media, as I'm really not getting very good results in removing even 800 grit scratches after five days in the tumbler. I'm able to get the walnut media to remove the abrasion marks from the ceramic tumbler media, but even that takes about a week.

I'd like to be able to sand a blade through 400 grit and chuck it in the tumbler like you do.

I wonder if my vibrating polisher doesn't vibrate as hard or something.

Originally Posted by FloorPizza

Glen, using the red walnut media, how many days do you find you need to leave a razor in the tumbler in order to remove, say, 400 grit sanding scratches?

I must not be using the correct type of additive to my walnut media, as I'm really not getting very good results in removing even 800 grit scratches after five days in the tumbler. I'm able to get the walnut media to remove the abrasion marks from the ceramic tumbler media, but even that takes about a week.

I'd like to be able to sand a blade through 400 grit and chuck it in the tumbler like you do.

I wonder if my vibrating polisher doesn't vibrate as hard or something.

I've had good results with the walnut shells & rubbing compound removing scratches from 600 grit using the polisher mentioned here somewhere (it's blue). I don't get much out of the corn cob though. Usually 3 days in the walnut is as good as it's going to get. I do another day or two in the corn cob but there's not really much difference that I can see.

The liquid rubbing compound does make a difference, but yeah I am in the 3 day rotation basically too...

Aaron is trying some 20 micron diamond right now in his to see if that makes a difference....

Three questions for the group here. I hope they are repeats.

1. I know a "true" tumbler (rotary) has been brought up a few times but I never saw a clear answer on whether or not they would work? I think the best I ran across was the theory that they may take longer.

Which begs the question...
2. "How much" longer...10% more time or 100% more time? (This assumes someone has tried it.)

3. Anybody used rice or grits for a media? Ran across that little hint (a very cheap one btw) in some of my "cross-referencing" research. Supposedly does great with brass. HC steel may be different, but this whole idea/thread is a practice in using "brass equipment" for steel.


Like always,
Thanks.

P.S. I tried to report some spam earlier tonight on a different thread. Hats off to the mods....by the time I wrote a two line explaination the link was dead and the post was gone.

I have a Thumbler Tumbler Model B that I use for wet washing rifle brass. It has a thick rubber liner. Since my Dillon died, I filled it half full of walnut media and half a tub of blue wonder. I started my w&b wedge in it last night, so I'll know in 3 days how well it works.

If I may add my two cents:

I use the lymans walnut shell with a bottle of turtle wax rubbing compound. I have 4 pounds of walnut shells then I added 1 cup of fine sandblasting sand (Silica warning). This does a great job in removing scratches and staining.

Instead of going to the corncob after, I just hit it on the buffing wheel through 4 different progressions of paste.