Thread: Flap wheel rotation

As you remove metal, it is easy to create a new and varying relationship between the edge and the spine when honing.

For instance if you had a lot of pitting or staining near the toe and you removed it, but did not have to do the same further back on the blade....this can make honing more challenging later in the process.

I'd get a fair amount of polishing/felt pad wheels as well, they get dirty quite fast.
To clean them a bit in between I pass them on sanding paper now and then.

Thanks guys, I'm really looking forward to this project when I get time after my exams.

Graham, the top one shows correct use. Now, when you get to the face side of the blade, the heel part either has to be done left-handed or VERY carefully with the flaps rotating into the edge (I keep it well pressed into the wood so there's no lift).
One flap wheel is more than good enough for 10 blades.
I do about 2 passes with a flap wheel of one grit per blade.
Easy on the pressure.

Ah excellent Ilija.

What grits do you use for the wheels. I've seen quite a few to choose from.

What I'm thinking is that I can remove rust/staining and polish the blade all with the dremel.

Satin..
I start with 120, do 240 and finish with 400 (1.5" diameter, 0.5" thickness)
Mirror..
That's already radial bristle disc territory.. I've picked up 3/4" ones from smallparts.com (three of their highest grits). You have to use a minimum of 4 to get a good spinning "brush". That's why I picked up a dozen in each grit.

If I'm dealing with really minor surface stuff and no pitting, I just use a polishing compound and a felt disc.

That's excellent mate. Good to now know the grits I need.

This thread has filled me with a wealth of knowledge now. So glad I started it.

Thanks to all who contributed.