Thread: Corse Buffing Compounds: Status Report

I mentioned a while back that I was going to try coarse buffing compounds as a means of blade restoration, so here's a bit of a status report. Testing is not complete.

The equipment:

• 80 grit greaseless compound
• 120 grit greaseless compound
• 220 grit greaseless compound
• 320 grit greaseless compound
• Black Emery Compound
• Stainless Compound
• White Rouge
• Standard Bench Grinder (~3400 rpm)
• 8" Sisal Wheels for the 80-120-220-320 and emery
• 8" Spiral Cotton Wheels for the Stainless and White Rouge
• A glass of water

Step 1: Inspected the blades to be refinished
Step 2: Using flapwheels and a dremel, major pitting was removed and smoothed to 400 grit. The scratch marks on the last pass were purposely left in a single direction.
Step 3: Proceeded to the compounds, first going perpendicular to previous grit's scratch lines until they disapeared, then leaving new ones perpendicular to those.
Step 4: A liquid smooth mirror finish

Comments: The glass of water was to quench the blade. This had to be done often to avoid heat buildup. All of the compounds up to and including the emery threw sparks. A very respectably smooth satin finish was left after the 320 grit, comparable to a fine bead blasted finish, but a little more directional.

I did 4 blades last week in about two and a half hours, from crusty to divine. This method beats the hell out of hand sanding, but requires much more space and investment in equipment.

More comments to follow once I get a chance todo some more blades.

I am building a buffing setup to do wood work but expect it would work great for double duty on blades.

I too am using a standard grinder. From your initial results, do you think this would work better with slowing it down, say to 1700 RPM instead? I ask since I recently used a buffing setup run by a slow speed motor and the lower speed seemed to work better (polishing wood and plastic).

I'd also be curious who you ordered the compounds from.... Been searching around but haven't narrowed any suppliers down.

Thanks!

v/r

Allen

Another question...

Are the tubes of compounds actually a "stick" form or more like toothpaste? I am familiar with the sticks (like Tripolli) and like how they work....

Thanks for the informative post. I have been playing with some of the same stuff recently. I have 400 and 600 greaseless compound and blending bar buffing compound and white rouge compound. I have not been able to get completely rid of the scratch marks. Did the black emery compound remove the 320 grit scratches?

I bought my supplies at Jantz knife supply, because I could go by in person to pick up.

Charlie

Very glad to hear your report.

Do be careful with buffers, though. They are considered the most dangerous tool in many shops, although they look pretty harmless. Really, 3450 RPM is too fast for buffing unless you're really experienced. Most knifemakers shudder at the thought of going over 1700 RPMs. A blade can get snatched out of your hand and hurled at 90 mph in random directions.

Read up on buffer safety.

Josh

I think everyone who has ever used a buffer or grinder has had a blade snatched out of their hands.... probably more than once. It is indeed extremely dangerous. Almost killed my cat once. And my fingers tips are scared for life..... And I have broken many blades.... all you newbies be careful!!!!

Originally Posted by JoshEarl

Very glad to hear your report.

Do be careful with buffers, though. They are considered the most dangerous tool in many shops, although they look pretty harmless. Really, 3450 RPM is too fast for buffing unless you're really experienced. Most knifemakers shudder at the thought of going over 1700 RPMs. A blade can get snatched out of your hand and hurled at 90 mph in random directions.

Read up on buffer safety.

Josh

+1 Josh. I used to make knives and started with a 1 1/2 horse 3400rpm buffer. After it grabbed one and slung it THROUGH the door I went for a smaller hp and slower buffer.
It is, make no mistake about it, the MOST dangerous tool in the shop!

Fred

Originally Posted by drfred

+1 Josh. I used to make knives and started with a 1 1/2 horse 3400rpm buffer. After it grabbed one and slung it THROUGH the door I went for a smaller hp and slower buffer.
It is, make no mistake about it, the MOST dangerous tool in the shop!

Fred

I know that Joe Chandler lost a finger tip this way (luckily it only sliced off skin and meat, no bone) and If not for a leather apron, WayneD would have sung soprano from that fateful day onwards...

I learned as a youth from a shop teacher the hazards of buffers. He had a few stories that put the fear of God into me. So fortunately I have not had a serious incident, yet. I picked up a speed controller used for routers from Harbor Freight that allows me to slow things way down.

I agree with all the warnings,and would add to spend a few days working under an experienced operator before before cutting loose.One of the guys in our shop had his thumb snatched out.eventually they will bite everybody Regards Gary