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Thread: Corse Buffing Compounds: Status Report

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floppyshoes Coarse Buffing Compounds:... 03-31-2008, 11:17 PM
RMC_SS_LDO I am building a buffing setup... 03-31-2008, 11:58 PM
RMC_SS_LDO Another question... Are... 04-01-2008, 12:03 AM
spazola Thanks for the informative... 04-01-2008, 01:20 AM
JoshEarl Very glad to hear your... 04-01-2008, 01:27 AM
Zomax I think everyone who has ever... 04-01-2008, 02:01 AM
floppyshoes I ordered the stuff from... 04-01-2008, 01:21 PM
Belegnole FYI a standard buffer used in... 04-02-2008, 01:26 AM
JoshEarl Amen. Josh 04-02-2008, 01:33 AM
floppyshoes Here is some more usefull... 04-02-2008, 06:36 PM
Joelski78 :shrug: Maybe this is a silly... 04-04-2008, 01:33 PM
Kyle76 In a word: cost. 04-04-2008, 01:36 PM
RMC_SS_LDO I found one very small... 04-04-2008, 03:42 PM
  1. #1
    Senior Member floppyshoes's Avatar
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    Default Coarse Buffing Compounds: Status Report

    I mentioned a while back that I was going to try coarse buffing compounds as a means of blade restoration, so here's a bit of a status report. Testing is not complete.

    The equipment:
    • 80 grit greaseless compound
    • 120 grit greaseless compound
    • 220 grit greaseless compound
    • 320 grit greaseless compound
    • Black Emery Compound
    • Stainless Compound
    • White Rouge
    • Standard Bench Grinder (~3400 rpm)
    • 8" Sisal Wheels for the 80-120-220-320 and emery
    • 8" Spiral Cotton Wheels for the Stainless and White Rouge
    • A glass of water
    Step 1: Inspected the blades to be refinished
    Step 2: Using flapwheels and a dremel, major pitting was removed and smoothed to 400 grit. The scratch marks on the last pass were purposely left in a single direction.
    Step 3: Proceeded to the compounds, first going perpendicular to previous grit's scratch lines until they disapeared, then leaving new ones perpendicular to those.
    Step 4: A liquid smooth mirror finish

    Comments: The glass of water was to quench the blade. This had to be done often to avoid heat buildup. All of the compounds up to and including the emery threw sparks. A very respectably smooth satin finish was left after the 320 grit, comparable to a fine bead blasted finish, but a little more directional.

    I did 4 blades last week in about two and a half hours, from crusty to divine. This method beats the hell out of hand sanding, but requires much more space and investment in equipment.

    More comments to follow once I get a chance todo some more blades.
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    Last edited by floppyshoes; 03-31-2008 at 11:33 PM.

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    Traveling east..... RMC_SS_LDO's Avatar
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    I am building a buffing setup to do wood work but expect it would work great for double duty on blades.

    I too am using a standard grinder. From your initial results, do you think this would work better with slowing it down, say to 1700 RPM instead? I ask since I recently used a buffing setup run by a slow speed motor and the lower speed seemed to work better (polishing wood and plastic).

    I'd also be curious who you ordered the compounds from.... Been searching around but haven't narrowed any suppliers down.

    Thanks!

    v/r

    Allen

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    Traveling east..... RMC_SS_LDO's Avatar
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    Another question...

    Are the tubes of compounds actually a "stick" form or more like toothpaste? I am familiar with the sticks (like Tripolli) and like how they work....

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    Senior Member blabbermouth spazola's Avatar
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    Thanks for the informative post. I have been playing with some of the same stuff recently. I have 400 and 600 greaseless compound and blending bar buffing compound and white rouge compound. I have not been able to get completely rid of the scratch marks. Did the black emery compound remove the 320 grit scratches?

    I bought my supplies at Jantz knife supply, because I could go by in person to pick up.

    Charlie

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    Razorsmith JoshEarl's Avatar
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    Very glad to hear your report.

    Do be careful with buffers, though. They are considered the most dangerous tool in many shops, although they look pretty harmless. Really, 3450 RPM is too fast for buffing unless you're really experienced. Most knifemakers shudder at the thought of going over 1700 RPMs. A blade can get snatched out of your hand and hurled at 90 mph in random directions.

    Read up on buffer safety.

    Josh

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    senior member Zomax's Avatar
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    I think everyone who has ever used a buffer or grinder has had a blade snatched out of their hands.... probably more than once. It is indeed extremely dangerous. Almost killed my cat once. And my fingers tips are scared for life..... And I have broken many blades.... all you newbies be careful!!!!

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    Senior Member drfred's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JoshEarl View Post
    Very glad to hear your report.

    Do be careful with buffers, though. They are considered the most dangerous tool in many shops, although they look pretty harmless. Really, 3450 RPM is too fast for buffing unless you're really experienced. Most knifemakers shudder at the thought of going over 1700 RPMs. A blade can get snatched out of your hand and hurled at 90 mph in random directions.

    Read up on buffer safety.

    Josh
    +1 Josh. I used to make knives and started with a 1 1/2 horse 3400rpm buffer. After it grabbed one and slung it THROUGH the door I went for a smaller hp and slower buffer.
    It is, make no mistake about it, the MOST dangerous tool in the shop!

    Fred

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    Senior Member floppyshoes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RMC_SS_LDO View Post
    I am building a buffing setup to do wood work but expect it would work great for double duty on blades.

    I too am using a standard grinder. From your initial results, do you think this would work better with slowing it down, say to 1700 RPM instead? I ask since I recently used a buffing setup run by a slow speed motor and the lower speed seemed to work better (polishing wood and plastic).

    I'd also be curious who you ordered the compounds from.... Been searching around but haven't narrowed any suppliers down.

    Thanks!

    v/r

    Allen
    I ordered the stuff from Eastwood. The grealess compounds are stiffer than toothpaste, I'd say more like a marzipan consistency. What you have to do is charge the wheel, then let it dry for 8 hours.

    On the issue of speed, I would say it works out to be just about right (perhaps a few ft/sec more than optimal, but far from "too fast"). Using 8" wheels as opposed to 10" or 12" reduces the speed and allows for easier contouring. Ideally I think I would have ordered 6" wheels, but hindsight is 20/20.

    This link provides some good info:
    http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...88&iSubCat=855

    No worries on safety. I wear a leather apron, gloves and face shield with neck guard. I also have experience buffing, albeit mostly with rouges up until recently.

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    <--- NIGH-INVULNERABLE! Belegnole's Avatar
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    FYI a standard buffer used in jewelry would use a 6" wheel at 3450 rpm that would be approximately 60 miles per hour.

    8" = 82 mph
    10" = 102 mph
    12" = 123 mph

    I use one every day except days off , unless I'm goofing off at home. I can say this ....IF you have not used one before get instruction. I have seen too many fingers in jars and on the floor to want to hear about it in these forums as well. If you can get a local jeweler to show you the ropes. Or anyone who does plating...chrome shops. If your lucky enough, get a knife maker to show you. Now if you don't have anyone to instruct you but have questions please feel free to PM me with them.....Dave

    Oh just imagine what a sharp razor could do to your face while shaving.....NOW imagine the same razor hitting you at 60 miles an hour..

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    Razorsmith JoshEarl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Belegnole View Post
    FYI a standard buffer used in jewelry would use a 6" wheel at 3450 rpm that would be approximately 60 miles per hour.

    8" = 82 mph
    10" = 102 mph
    12" = 123 mph

    I use one every day except days off , unless I'm goofing off at home. I can say this ....IF you have not used one before get instruction. I have seen too many fingers in jars and on the floor to want to hear about it in these forums as well. If you can get a local jeweler to show you the ropes. Or anyone who does plating...chrome shops. If your lucky enough, get a knife maker to show you. Now if you don't have anyone to instruct you but have questions please feel free to PM me with them.....Dave

    Oh just imagine what a sharp razor could do to your face while shaving.....NOW imagine the same razor hitting you at 60 miles an hour..
    Amen.

    Josh

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