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Thread: Corse Buffing Compounds: Status Report

  1. #11
    Razorsmith JoshEarl's Avatar
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    This is the one thing I've felt the restoration forum was missing--some good buffer stories.

    I use a buffer, and I haven't had any accidents yet. But if you get cocky...

    Learn what to do and not do, and wear some safety equipment. Position the buffer so that it overhangs your work table. That way if a blade gets grabbed it will probably hit the floor rather than bouncing off the workbench, then the wall, then you.

    Josh

  2. #12
    Senior Member floppyshoes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RMC_SS_LDO View Post
    I am building a buffing setup to do wood work but expect it would work great for double duty on blades.

    I too am using a standard grinder. From your initial results, do you think this would work better with slowing it down, say to 1700 RPM instead? I ask since I recently used a buffing setup run by a slow speed motor and the lower speed seemed to work better (polishing wood and plastic).

    I'd also be curious who you ordered the compounds from.... Been searching around but haven't narrowed any suppliers down.

    Thanks!

    v/r

    Allen
    I ordered the stuff from Eastwood. The grealess compounds are stiffer than toothpaste, I'd say more like a marzipan consistency. What you have to do is charge the wheel, then let it dry for 8 hours.

    On the issue of speed, I would say it works out to be just about right (perhaps a few ft/sec more than optimal, but far from "too fast"). Using 8" wheels as opposed to 10" or 12" reduces the speed and allows for easier contouring. Ideally I think I would have ordered 6" wheels, but hindsight is 20/20.

    This link provides some good info:
    http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?i...88&iSubCat=855

    No worries on safety. I wear a leather apron, gloves and face shield with neck guard. I also have experience buffing, albeit mostly with rouges up until recently.

  3. #13
    <--- NIGH-INVULNERABLE! Belegnole's Avatar
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    FYI a standard buffer used in jewelry would use a 6" wheel at 3450 rpm that would be approximately 60 miles per hour.

    8" = 82 mph
    10" = 102 mph
    12" = 123 mph

    I use one every day except days off , unless I'm goofing off at home. I can say this ....IF you have not used one before get instruction. I have seen too many fingers in jars and on the floor to want to hear about it in these forums as well. If you can get a local jeweler to show you the ropes. Or anyone who does plating...chrome shops. If your lucky enough, get a knife maker to show you. Now if you don't have anyone to instruct you but have questions please feel free to PM me with them.....Dave

    Oh just imagine what a sharp razor could do to your face while shaving.....NOW imagine the same razor hitting you at 60 miles an hour..

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  5. #14
    Razorsmith JoshEarl's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Belegnole View Post
    FYI a standard buffer used in jewelry would use a 6" wheel at 3450 rpm that would be approximately 60 miles per hour.

    8" = 82 mph
    10" = 102 mph
    12" = 123 mph

    I use one every day except days off , unless I'm goofing off at home. I can say this ....IF you have not used one before get instruction. I have seen too many fingers in jars and on the floor to want to hear about it in these forums as well. If you can get a local jeweler to show you the ropes. Or anyone who does plating...chrome shops. If your lucky enough, get a knife maker to show you. Now if you don't have anyone to instruct you but have questions please feel free to PM me with them.....Dave

    Oh just imagine what a sharp razor could do to your face while shaving.....NOW imagine the same razor hitting you at 60 miles an hour..
    Amen.

    Josh

  6. #15
    Traveling east..... RMC_SS_LDO's Avatar
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    The polisher/buffer I've used was a 1700 RPM one and was only used to buff out scales (no blade work). It was plenty fast and why I was asking about the 3400 RPM ones.... seems too easy to get away from you or scorch something.

    I'll post up some pics of the finished buffing setup I'm building but it won't be done for a long time (cash strapped for now).


    v/r

    Allen

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    <--- NIGH-INVULNERABLE! Belegnole's Avatar
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    seems too easy to get away from you or scorch something.
    It can get away from you...yes, but with a touch of learning and attentiveness you can do it. As to heat; I have been using one for 25 years now and I still end up with blisters on my fingertips sometimes. Of course when I do this I'm not working on something that is heat sensitive in the same way. Usually it's silver that causes the blisters. When I work with anything that IS heat sensitive I keep a quench at hand and use it when needed. You will also quickly get to know when it's time to back off and either quench or air cool.

    A thought.....one of the reasons that people loos control of a piece while buffing is that the object gets tugged out of their hand because thing get slippery. For some things I have mad a handle or way to hold on to a item where there is almost no way to loose your grip. With a razor you could probably rig something up. but I haven't come up with a idea that I feel is safe enough to share ....yet....Boards vice grips and C-claps come to mind though
    Last edited by Belegnole; 04-02-2008 at 04:47 AM.

  8. #17
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    What you could is make a wooden blade holder to clamp the blade.

    Say what you want about dremel polishing, but at least the risk of skewering yourself is minimal (of course I assume that NOONE is buffing razors with bystanders in the vicinity).
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

  9. #18
    Senior Member Kenrup's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Belegnole View Post
    It can get away from you...yes, but with a touch of learning and attentiveness you can do it. As to heat; I have been using one for 25 years now and I still end up with blisters on my fingertips sometimes. Of course when I do this I'm not working on something that is heat sensitive in the same way. Usually it's silver that causes the blisters. When I work with anything that IS heat sensitive I keep a quench at hand and use it when needed. You will also quickly get to know when it's time to back off and either quench or air cool.

    A thought.....one of the reasons that people loos control of a piece while buffing is that the object gets tugged out of their hand because thing get slippery. For some things I have mad a handle or way to hold on to a item where there is almost no way to loose your grip. With a razor you could probably rig something up. but I haven't come up with a idea that I feel is safe enough to share ....yet....Boards vice grips and C-claps come to mind though
    I wear mechanics gloves when I'm working with the grinder. I don't buff my hide if I bump the wheel. If I feel heat through the gloves, I let things cool. I also have a firmer grip.
    Once upon a time in a land far away, Minnesota that is. One of my summer jobs during my college days was working as a grinder in a foundry. I used huge 4" wide very long belts. When I had job lot of bronze I had to wear welders gloves. I remember how many times my hands were spared by those gloves. I noticed lately that 110lb aluminum flange is a bit different then a razor blade.

  10. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Belegnole View Post
    With a razor you could probably rig something up. but I haven't come up with a idea that I feel is safe enough to share ....yet....Boards vice grips and C-claps come to mind though
    How about, if you're doing a restoration with the scales off the blade, you can use a #2 screw to affix the blade to an appropriate block of wood/2x4/piece of plywood?

  11. #20
    Renaissance Man fritz's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RMC_SS_LDO View Post
    The polisher/buffer I've used was a 1700 RPM one and was only used to buff out scales (no blade work). It was plenty fast and why I was asking about the 3400 RPM ones.... seems too easy to get away from you or scorch something.
    Allen
    Bill Ellis says on his CD that 1750 and an 8" wheel is plenty fast enough...and still requires caution.

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