Thread: Corse Buffing Compounds: Status Report

Here is some more usefull information:
http://www.caswellplating.com/buffs/buffman.htm

I realize the 3400 rpm motor speed is a little on the high side, but I've safely achieved excellent results from this setup. Would I recommend this technique to a novice restorer with no previous experience with buffers or other power tools? Absolutely not. I'm 23 and I've been using tools that could take my head off since I was 10.

Originally Posted by Bruno

What you could is make a wooden blade holder to clamp the blade.

Originally Posted by Seraphim

How about, if you're doing a restoration with the scales off the blade, you can use a #2 screw to affix the blade to an appropriate block of wood/2x4/piece of plywood?

Wood with a screw might work but the blade should remain flat (like when honing) on the board.

Originally Posted by Kenrup

I wear mechanics gloves when I'm working with the grinder. I don't buff my hide if I bump the wheel. If I feel heat through the gloves, I let things cool. I also have a firmer grip.
Once upon a time in a land far away, Minnesota that is. One of my summer jobs during my college days was working as a grinder in a foundry. I used huge 4" wide very long belts. When I had job lot of bronze I had to wear welders gloves. I remember how many times my hands were spared by those gloves. I noticed lately that 110lb aluminum flange is a bit different then a razor blade.

I remember having good results while buffing some odd shaped items. I use a leather strap....around 2" wide. Why I didn't think of it earlier I cannot say.I'll blame mental separation from work....oh the strap is slightly longer than the work piece. Both items are held with one hand while the other had supports from underneath.

Originally Posted by fritz

Bill Ellis says on his CD that 1750 and an 8" wheel is plenty fast enough...and still requires caution.

I just spent the day looking locally for a 6" 1700rpm grinder with not much luck. Bill is right (not that I would argue with him) though You can buff with a 3450rpm motor. You just have to be a bit more careful with the heat and safety.

I had a blade shatter at 1200 on an 8" last night. I was wearing the standard safety equipment, though I do work with bare hands. Surprising to say the least .

Sorry to hear that...I hope nothing else was damaged, especially yourself. I know the feeling you had when it happened and surprising is almost a understatement.

I think one of the reasons buffing is dangerous is because it seems so safe. I mean, you have that little motor with a soft, fluffy wheel attached to it. What could it possibly do to hurt you? Compared to a table saw, the danger seems remote.

I haven't had any accidents yet, and I hope I never do. But every time I reach for that power switch I remind myself that buffing requires concentration and care.

Josh

Maybe this is a silly question, but I can't see why they generally sell single speed ones, why aren't they just all 'rotation speed adjustable buffer machines/multi speeds buffers'?

The biggest problem I have found when buffing is having the leading edge (the edge first encountered by the wheel) of the workpiece catch on the wheel. You have to be constantly thinking about the angle at which the workpiece encounters the wheel and make sure that the leading edge touches the wheel only lightly at best. Of course, the edge of the blade should never be the leading edge during buffing. Let the compund do the work and resist the urge to put more pressure on the wheel.

Originally Posted by Joelski78

Maybe this is a silly question, but I can't see why they generally sell single speed ones, why aren't they just all 'rotation speed adjustable buffer machines/multi speeds buffers'?

In a word: cost.

I never buff edge leading, and neither should anyone else in any situation. There are always other options. If you can't do the side of the blade entirely edge trailing or parallel, then either your wheel is too big, you're holding the blade wrong or the last razor you buffed edge leading is lodged in your frontal lobe. Often, especially with sisal wheels (the kind used for most of my coarse compounds) threads come loose and whip around, sometimes up to 2-3 inches from the rest of the wheel. These could easily catch the edge and damage the razor, you or your workshop. If you're buffing edge-trailing and are holding on to the blade properly, this shouldn't be a problem.

On a side note, as an added comment to the initial report...
Always rake your wheels for coarse compounds when you're done then re-paste them before putting them away. This will ensure that they are always clean, uniform and charged for the next time you use them. For greasy compounds, rake and charge right before use.

Originally Posted by Joelski78

Maybe this is a silly question, but I can't see why they generally sell single speed ones, why aren't they just all 'rotation speed adjustable buffer machines/multi speeds buffers'?

I found one very small vari-speed one that was insufficient for what I needed. I also looked at slow speed motors and buffer set-up but they were more than I wanted to spend.

Solution: build it. I am finishing construction on "Franken-Bench" that includes a buffing "station". Using a standart 3400 RPM bench grinder (that I got for free), I am mounting a 1.75" pully to drive another pully at 3.45". Quick math puts speed stepped down to about 1725 RPM. Another (not-so-quick) pully change, I could adjust speed as required. I don't anticipate needing any other speeds (using 6" buffing wheels) but I have the option.

I'll post pics of Franken-Bench next weekend if I can get all of the parts in and get it finished.....

v/r

Allen