Thread: Wood thickness for making scales

When you make scales, do you start with 1/8" thick slab-o-wood, or 1/4"?

I actually prefer a bit under 1/8", but it depends on the hardness of the wood....and the shape of the scales.

I usually use 1/8", but 3/16" is nice for bigger blades and customs.

Josh

1/8 is about right. They should finish out between 1/8 and 1/10 and 1/10 is approximately the thickness of standard scales. I consider 1/8 to be a little "beefy", which isn't such a bad thing. If you start with 1/8, you'll finish up just about right after sanding.

I gotta give the political answer, in other words never nail yourself down to anything
I think there is a little personal preference involved here and also the razor has to balance out, weight wise and looks wise.....
I personally don't like the Popsicle stick looking scales I like a little contour to wood scales giving it a slight depth, keep in mind that is a purely personal preference....
All that being said I usually rip the blanks at 3/16 put the contour on the outside then sand from the inside until they feel and look right to "me".....


Note: This way would be a major PITA to do without the proper tools .....

I have started with 1/8
i've only made 3 so far and I'm on the learning curve.
If anyone has any pointers and want to pass them along/ PM me.
stevefaison@yahoo.com

I'll post pics when I am finished with some good ones.

I´m the one that prefer the 1/4. The reason is the same, that gssixgun descripes. I´m never was a fan of the small-plank-design from the standard scales. I´m more a guy for 3D and smooth curves.

For standard scales, I start with approximately 1/8", then sand thinner.
Conveniently, my planer bottoms out just a hair over 1/8"

For one piece scales I use 3/8" stock and a cutting jig.

I have to say, I love some contour to scales and all, but if your scales are over 1/8" thick, let alone 1/4", they look reeeally funny unless the blade suits them. That being said, I have done thick scales and have seen thick scales that look great on large 7/8 etc. blades. For the most part, I start with 1/8" and work them slightly under from sanding like Robert said. That's only my general starting point though. Also, as Glen said, it's personal. What I think looks awkward, you might love.

Originally Posted by Buddel

I´m the one that prefer the 1/4. The reason is the same, that gssixgun descripes. I´m never was a fan of the small-plank-design from the standard scales. I´m more a guy for 3D and smooth curves.

Nope. Me too.
The reason is that I shape scales so that the tang fits nicely between them in the pivot.
And then the scales curve inwards to come very close to each other at the butt end.

This allows me to scale a 8/8 friodur without needing a butt spacer that is 5 mm wide.
Instead, the butt spacer can be thin because the scales curve inwards.
You cannot do this with 1/8 wood, because the material is not thick enough to allow for the curvature that I want.

For tick wedges this is not an issue, because you will want a thicker butt spacer for balance.
For thin hollow grounds this is not an issue either, because you don't need much curvature, if any.
But for 8/8 or 7/8 hollows and half hollows, having the curvature is nice because the tangs are usually very thick. Scaling them with 1/8 would force you to use thick butt spacers as well.