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04-24-2011, 05:48 PM #31
Okay they're not a perfect fixed but it's close enough to work. I still need to clean up the scales and blade now that they're "straight".
I used a covered pot with colander and filtered water to provide the steam, two paint stir sticks for splinting, and a microfastener kit to hold it together.
I tried sandwiching both sides of the scales between the stir sticks at once, but it didn't quite work. So going with one side of the scales at a time seemed to provide a better straightening, perhaps because the weight place on top was enough for one, but not two simultaneously. I waited till the water was a very fast rolling boil (gas was on high), left the scales in the pot for 15 seconds, took them out and tightened, put them in for 15 seconds, tightened, 15 seconds, and then put the weight on them. I left them weighted for at least a few hours.
Before, during, and after:
Things that would make it easier to accomplish (and probably get better results) would be thicker wood or stronger materials that would hold perfectly straight. And instead of using weight on a countertop corner, I would suggest c-clamps, vise grips, a table vise, or some method of clamping to give more pressure uniformly across the splints.Last edited by TwistedOak; 04-24-2011 at 05:51 PM. Reason: additional information
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04-25-2011, 04:38 PM #32
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04-25-2011, 04:42 PM #33
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04-26-2011, 05:38 PM #34
Glen...
Would this method work with a one piece Ivory (or Celluloid???) as well? Here are some pics:
Thanks... WP34Lupus Cohors - Appellant Mors !
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04-26-2011, 05:57 PM #35
Oh one piece would be a little more challenging. But what came to mind first was almost like the pinned method.
You might try unpinning the pivot side and making a wedge that would fit the entire length of the inside of your scales. then sandwich the scales and long wedge between two sturdy flat pieces. You could drill and tighten with hardware through the pivot side with a longer than normal microfastener bolt. and on the "wedge" side you could pin around it with a couple bolts since you obviously can't go through it. Just a thought.
I can make an elementary school style drawing in mspaint for you if you want a visual of what I'm trying to explain.
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Wolfpack34 (04-26-2011)
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04-26-2011, 07:15 PM #36
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04-26-2011, 07:20 PM #37
Sure can when I get home in a few hour, but I warned you its going look pretty like a 3rd grader drew it
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04-26-2011, 11:02 PM #38
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I was thinking along the same lines, Twisted, when I saw the original thread. Perhaps something like a Popsicle stick held in there, then put in the press .. some type of bracing at the least...
BTW I think the scales are Celluloid but you can't ever be positive from pics....
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Wolfpack34 (04-27-2011)
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04-27-2011, 01:35 AM #39
OKay here's the cross section diagram
color key:
Black = your scales (pivot is on the left side, wedge is on the right side)
Red = popsicle stick/paint stir stick sanded and cut down to fit very closely inside the entire length (especially the wedge end)
Blue = splint on top and bottom of your scales, this should be something sturdy like a thick metal ruler, thick wood pieces, etc.
Green = points for c-clamps or vise grips. I think these would be the best choice for a couple reasons. First, you can keep them clamped down while you steam or hot water dip the whole straightening assembly. Second, I don't think you will find a micro fastener bolt long enough to go through the five layers of materials we have stacked up.
Since we can't verify through your pictures whether they are celluloid, ivory, or faux ivory, it is important to remember to take this slow. Heat for a higher number of short periods rather than heating couple times for 20 minutes at a time.
Also, you want the clamps to be tight enough to hold your scales in the proper alignment, but no tighter. I noticed on mine that there were some spots that had been smashed down by the weight while the plastic scales were malleable. Nothing bad beyond aesthetically unpleasing but I wouldn't want to ruin the nice detail work I can see on yours.
I hope this helps.
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Wolfpack34 (04-27-2011)
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04-27-2011, 01:43 AM #40
Thanks Glen...I think they are celluloid also. And a Big Thanks to you Twisted Oak for the diagram! I'm going to go to work on it tomorrow...I'll post pics when it's done. I think I'll try the 'hot air' method for a few days to see if that works...if not I'll do the steam.
Thanks...
WP34Lupus Cohors - Appellant Mors !