Thread: Making Oak Scales

I made a posting over at the Badger and Blade; but haven't got much response. I figure this site may be worth a try.

I'm in the middle of a re-scaling project. please add any advice you can. Thanks Guys

The Original Scales


After Opening 'Er Up


Tracing the Scales on to Oak (Look Carefully for trace lines)


All the Pieces Side by Sidehttp://img259.imageshack.us/img259/8092/dsci0011wf9.jpg


Potentially What it Would Look Like If I Pinned The Raw Wood


First Coat Of Stain


I put a second coat of stain on; and found the nice camera.



Thanks For Looking

-Lawrence

Welcome to SRP, Lawrence.
I can't exactly tell what you're looking for in terms of advice. It looks to me like the scales still need to be final shaped (it looks like your curves aren't fluid at the head and tail end [could be the photos]). Can you be more specific of what advice you're looking for?

Mark

4 Coats of Urethane.

Originally Posted by Milton Man

Welcome to SRP, Lawrence.
I can't exactly tell what you're looking for in terms of advice. It looks to me like the scales still need to be final shaped (it looks like your curves aren't fluid at the head and tail end [could be the photos]). Can you be more specific of what advice you're looking for?

Mark

The ends aren't 100% round; but they are symmetrical. I had the two clamped together while sanding. I tried to get them as round as possible, but without any proper tools this was the closest I could get. Thanks for the comment though. In terms of advice - any future pit falls I may fall into from those who have done something similar.

What I do is I drill the holes before I start shaping the scales.
That way it is very easy to make sure that the holes are aligned perfectly. Drilling the holes afterwards is possible too, but typically a bit more finicky.

But the scales you made look really nice.
When they are ready, you should coat them with something to make them water repellant.
My personal preference is antiques wax, but you can also use beeswax or something similar.

Some peope also use CA (superglue) or epoxy coating but I don't. I don't like the glossy look. Instead, I prefer that wood feels like wood. But I do coat the insides of my scales with superglue to prevent moisture from seeping in.

Also, have a look at the FAQ / resources sticky of the workshop forum.
it contains lots of links for buying things like pins, washers, 1/16 screws, ...

You might want to do some browsing in the Wiki here at SRP

Category:Tutorials - Straight Razor Place Wiki

We actually have a whole forum dedicated to these projects here called the Workshop....

Many of the more detailed threads are linked in the Wiki for ease of finding them.....

Looks like you're off to a fine start there, I too would agree with Burno about drilling the holes first, if you hit the link to the "Total Restore" thread in the Wiki I detailed out all the reasons...

All done!

Took a few days for the urethane to cure fully before the final sand. but it's done. I was looking at pinning it with brass 1/16" rods, but I wasn't having any luck finding any. besides I bought these screws for $0.24. Can't go wrong there. They are a little bigger than I wanted..... but a little decorative none the less. the beveled washers made a big difference.

Hope you like it!

Sorry for the oven shots. in a bit of a rush, and it was one of the few really bright spots in out basement.

Congrats. The scales are a nice classical shape but the fasteners look kinda bombproof.
You should be able to get brass rod at any hobby store.

Your front door called. It wants the screws from its hinges back.

Nice job on the handle but I think you could have done a bit of research on the pinning situation.

Lawrence, I think it has a nice chunky look to it - it's bold and makes a statement. I'd say for a first attempt, you did great! Keep at it, and keep experimenting - different looks and pushing the envelope are definitely welcome.

Two quick questions though -1) are the other side of the screws bolted or are they biting just into the wood; 2) did you have to significantly enlarge the pivot hole in the razor to get the screw to fit through?

Again, very nicely done.
Mark