Thread: Soaking to clean

Originally Posted by Akady

Well It looks liek I am checking ace come monday cause after 2 treatments of WD 40 it is not moving.

Try leaving the WD40 on longer, overnight if necessary. Are you sure that there is nothing else holding this together?

Another vote for Kroil. Got some when I worked at the machine shop. I use it to clean guns. Works great!

kroil is excellent stuff but has anyone tried pb blaster? it also is way better than wd-40

Originally Posted by jszabo

kroil is excellent stuff but has anyone tried pb blaster? it also is way better than wd-40

Yeah PB blaster is good stuff My neighbor who rebuilds older Caterpillar's swears by that stuff....

This receipe for penetrating oil is the best and it is safe: Get some OIL of WINTERGREEN at drugstores or health food stores. It can be bought as organic or synthetic (methyl salicylate). Mix 50-50 with some light oil like automatic transmission fluid. Shake it up, put it on, let it soak in for a few minutes-loosens it up! Now it will smell like Ben-Gay or something you apply to sore muscles, etc. It will penetrate anything and it will not hurt anything, but do not get it in your eyes! It will sting like hell! We used this to free up rusted factory machinery parts and fittings.

OIL OF WINTERGREEN + ANY THIN OIL = BEST PENETRATING OIL EVER! Works like Magic! Robert

Well I cant find Kroil or Oil of Wintergreen. I have been spraying it with WD 40 an no movement. I do have some Royal Purple 10w-5 Would taht work for a soak? Or should I spray it with a degreaser?

Try some brake fluid or tranny fluid.

pb blaster works miricales if you cant find kroil i use pb all the time when i restore my tractors

I am trying to soak it in power steering fluid. I hope that works. Next I am thinking that it might have been soldered in place. How would I check this with out affecting the hardness of the blade?

OK this has been soaking for more than a week; if "chemicals" don’t work you may have to try mechanical means.
You could post a photo of the blade and depending on the design we may come up with a suitable method of removal…

Here is a thought…
Clamp most of the blade in a bench vice but leave out a few mm of the blade (edge down frame up), then with a flat blade screwdriver or preferably a small claw bar or the rear claw of a hammer, and starting at the toe end of the frame, slowly and carefully pry the frame using the top of vice jaws as support (you want to pry both sides of the frame at the same time that’s why its better to use a claw bar)… you may want to place soft material between the vice jaws and the blade so you don’t mar the finish… also a similar material between the prying tool and the frame.
Warning… the frame of many “frame-back” razors are un-hardened steel and may bend easily but if you are gentle you may be able to "crack" the brittle rust that is holding it in place… Once you get the blade to move even a “microd” don’t pry any more, remove the blade from the vice and allow the WD40 or whatever chemical to finish the work and you may be able to remove it by hand.

Bear in mind, the part of the blade inside the frame may be so rusty and disintegrated that it may simply brake in two leaving the other half still in the frame so there is no guarantee of success.