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JimR Dealing with Rust 03-18-2009, 01:14 PM
JimmyHAD To me that is merely a... 03-18-2009, 01:32 PM
sparq You can also apply a drop or... 03-18-2009, 01:44 PM
singlewedge My experience, limited as it... 03-18-2009, 02:23 PM
gssixgun WD-40 is good, Kroil is... 03-18-2009, 02:31 PM
JimR Thanks for all the advice,... 03-18-2009, 10:52 PM
gssixgun One thing you should be... 03-18-2009, 11:14 PM
Seraphim JimR, this sounds like a real... 03-19-2009, 12:30 AM
JimR Thanks...I dig it too. ... 03-19-2009, 02:13 AM
  1. #1
    Senior Member singlewedge's Avatar
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    My experience, limited as it is, is this.

    It depends on how deep the rust goes and if I can get to it. If it is surface rust. 1k paper or neverdull will get out most of it. If it extends to a point I can't adequetly reach. I'll unpin it and go after it.

    Really depends on your comfort level.

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    WD-40 is good, Kroil is better, the flat dental floss is great...
    You need to obviously clean those scales too.... 1k sandpaper will do everything and then some MAAS to polish and protect...

    I try never to pop pins unless absolutely necessary on vintage razors, but that is just my opinion...

    Being in Japan you might have some difficulty finding some of those names, but I bet there are local equivilents...

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    JimR (03-18-2009)

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    Senior Member blabbermouth JimR's Avatar
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    Thanks for all the advice, guys. I'll give it a clean...I was actually worried about popping the scales, I figured that if the rust had got under there, I might have to remove them to get it all cleaned out. Good to hear it's not necessary.

    I'll try to find some local equivalent to WD40...shouldn't be TOO hard, people need to clean and lubricate machinery in Japan, too.

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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    One thing you should be perpared for, I forgot to mention above...
    Once you get this all cleaned up 9 out of 10 times you are going to have to tighten the pins.... Once all that gunk and rust is outta there, you will find that razor moves way better....

    oh yeah one more hint if the razor is loose leave it that way until after you clean it, then tighten...

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    JimR, this sounds like a real burden....let me lighten your load, brotha!




    I really dig that blade! Cool outline, little known brand, very unique grind....Tell us how it shaves after you get it shined and honed up! I'm betting it will knock your socks off!

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    Senior Member blabbermouth JimR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Seraphim View Post
    JimR, this sounds like a real burden....let me lighten your load, brotha!




    I really dig that blade! Cool outline, little known brand, very unique grind....Tell us how it shaves after you get it shined and honed up! I'm betting it will knock your socks off!

    Thanks...I dig it too. It's actually already honed--the seller seems to know what he's talking about (he says he honed it on a coticule with a thuringian finish) and it feels good on the TPT and the HHT is clean. I'm going to shave with it this weekend...

    I'm not sure how much I want to clean it up. The scales are solid but the finish is coming off; they must have been something back in the day. I actually kind of like the worn look on it...this looks like a blade that's seen the world. Though there is some annoying scratching on the lower blade, like someone started to try to sand the discoloration off and gave up.

    I'll think about it...it's fun to look at it, though.

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    What I do with rust in that area is to sand it off with 400 or 600 grit sandpaper, folded so that it fits in the crack. I really try not to get the pins out unless absolutely necessary.

    If your obsessive about it, you can put some MAAS on a toothbrush and finish the sanding with 1.5k grit and get it pretty shiny. But tbh, no one ever looks there and as long as the rust is gone, its all good to me. I throw a drop of mineral oil down there to help with sanding and lubrication.

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    JimR (03-19-2009)

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