Thread: Working with spalted maple

Originally Posted by Philadelph

Stabilizing a finished or thin piece could MAKE the piece warp. That is why usually all stabilizing is done to wood when it is still in a block form (1/8" pieces of wood should not be stabilized IMO). Not hard to work when done.

Good to know Alex. Thanks for the information. These pieces are about 1/2 thick. I hope that's thick enough to keep them from warping.

Originally Posted by Philadelph

Stabilizing a finished or thin piece could MAKE the piece warp. That is why usually all stabilizing is done to wood when it is still in a block form (1/8" pieces of wood should not be stabilized IMO). Not hard to work when done.

OK, then. Thanks for the tip. Until I read your response, I would probably have done exactly the wrong thing>

In defense of natural wood... it's not so bad.

Figured wood is one thing when the grain can dive face to face--- it'll snap. Stabilization can make it usable. Spalt is from decay; some could be too soft= sure

most of the time your finish of choice should be good enough eh?

So what if they wear out someday....