Thread: First Scales - In Teak

Originally Posted by gssixgun

You're are off to a great start, if I might drop a few hints, those half bolsters on the Easy Aces scales can be removed with acetone, it will literally dissolve the old celluloid scales if you want to keep them and fit them to the new scales..(there is a thread that Floppyshoes and I did on here with DD reapers).
Thickness is always an issue, where to start, where to end ??? ..
I pre-cut my blanks at a light 3/16 for all razors that way for the heavier wedges I still have some weight and heft to balance the razor, and for lighter more delicate razors it is not much work to take them thinner for weight and balance... I have only found one rule to be true so far, the wood / material has to be able to flex even just a touch works, so if you can bend it a tiny bit it will work...

Somebody already beat me to the bolsters and inlay. There's only a partial one left on one side and half of one left on the other. They did leave me the green tarnish, though.

The teak is pretty stiff, but I can put a slight bend into it. Together they are 5/16 wide, so one of them would be just under 3/16. I'm hoping they are not too heavy for the blade and will balance well.

Originally Posted by crazycliff200843

Somebody already beat me to the bolsters and inlay. There's only a partial one left on one side and half of one left on the other. They did leave me the green tarnish, though.

Oh man that is just all wrong the nerve of some people...

teak is one of the densest woods out there. They used to use them for the masts on sailing ships a long time ago. the stuff is so dense when they fell a tree they can't send it down a river because it will sink they have to leave it there a year or more until it starts to dry out and will float.

teak for scales is probably great. I know for furniture unless its properly dried it has a tendency to warp over time.

Well, I finished them as far as I am willing to go at the moment. The scales are a little bulky and balance a little behind the pin, but the razor still shaves pretty well. I might make another set that's a little bit lighter, or at least narrower towards the pivot pin, later on down the road, but these are working pretty good. The linseed oil seems to keep the water out. You can see how the oil darkened the wood a little bit. The blade centered better than I thought it would as drilling the holes for the pins was one of the last things I did. I attribute that to how flat the inside surfaces were more than how straight I drilled the holes, though. I will probably file down the ends of the pins a little bit, too, because they stick out more than regular pins do.

Thats a real nice rubber chicken you got ther.

Originally Posted by broncobob

Thats a real nice rubber chicken you got ther.

I would say more, that's down right rubber chicken abuse you're displaying there.
You... you... rubber chicken molester!!!

Very nice rescaling job, by the way.
I like the satin finish on the teak, and I just love the solid look when the razor is closed.

Bart.

Yeah, I laugh every time I look at that chicken.

Another reason I rescaled the razor, and probably the one that got me started thinking about it, was the fact that it would not stand up like it does now. It would only lay on its side. Now, it has a wider/flatter base.