Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 13
  1. #1
    Member ErieSurfer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    America's North Coast
    Posts
    32
    Thanked: 5

    Default Help me pick the victim

    I recently purchased several razors at an antique store, and I would like to use one of them to teach myself to restore the others. It's not that I intend to ruin the first razor, but there is a reason we call it 'learning'. To that end, please review the following list of razors and give your opinion as to which one you think I should use as my restoration trainer.

    (?).J. Eyre & Cos, Challenge Razor, Sheffield (there is a number 5 on this, but rust obscures any other numbers)

    Toledo, Ranson & Randolph, Toledo Ohio

    H. Boker & Co, No 386, Germany

    Manufactured by, Frederick Reynolds, Sheffield (a heavy wedge blade, no hollows)

    Damascus Steel, Wilbert

    Adoration, Hand Forged, Giesen & Forsthoff, Solingen Germany

    Hand Forged, P. Lundborg, Worcester Mass

    Schumate's Tungsten, Schumate Cutlery Corp, St. Louis MO

    Thanks for your help in advance.

  2. #2
    zib
    zib is offline
    Hell Razor zib's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Jacksonville, Fl.
    Posts
    5,348
    Thanked: 1217
    Blog Entries
    4

    Default

    My vote is for the second one, Toledo ranson, etc...
    We have assumed control !

  3. #3
    Ladies Corner and General Chat CarrieM's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Location
    Williamson, NY
    Posts
    1,303
    Thanked: 381

    Default

    Pics would help, but without them I would also lean towards the Toledo or the Schumate blade.

  4. #4
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Idaho Redoubt
    Posts
    26,960
    Thanked: 13226
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Whichever has the least amount of restoration to do...

    Start with the easiest and work your way to the hardest....

    As you gain experience hopefully you will gain knowledge too, and not wreck any of them....

  5. The Following User Says Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:

    ErieSurfer (07-13-2009)

  6. #5
    . Otto's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    3,754
    Thanked: 3708

    Default

    Pictures would help.
    I agree with Glen, start with the one that looks the easiest to fix.


    "Cheap Tools Is Misplaced Economy. Always buy the best and highest grade of razors, hones and strops. Then you are prepared to do the best work."
    - Napoleon LeBlanc, 1895

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to Otto For This Useful Post:

    ErieSurfer (07-13-2009)

  8. #6
    Member ErieSurfer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    America's North Coast
    Posts
    32
    Thanked: 5

    Default

    I apologize for the lack of photos to help you out. My wife is presently tapping her toe in anticipation of our departure to Fourth of July festivities. I can get some photos posted, but I'm short on time right now.

    Happy Independence Day to everyone!

  9. #7
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Posts
    392
    Thanked: 105

    Default

    I agree with Glen too. But with out pics it is hard to say. From the list I would start with the F. Reynolds, it's a wedge, flat surface, and sturdy more steel to work with. But it is the one that is probibly the most desirable. Second choice would be the Schumate, good shavers and less costly to replace if something goes wrong.


    Tim

  10. The Following User Says Thank You to oldblades For This Useful Post:

    ErieSurfer (07-13-2009)

  11. #8
    Member ErieSurfer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    America's North Coast
    Posts
    32
    Thanked: 5

    Default Here are some pictures to help you decide

    I used the lightbox ideas in the wiki for taking razor photos, but I still had a lot of trouble getting my razors properly illuminated. Anyhow, let me know your thoughts about which one I should focus upon first.

    Also, you should know that the scales on the Eyre are made of wood, and much of the dark finish is gone. A fair bit of wood is missing in the area immediately around the pivot pin.

    Adoration
    [img]Adoration.jpg[/img]

    Boker
    [img]Boker.jpg[/img]

    Eyre
    [img]Eyre.jpg[/img]

    F Reynolds
    [img]F Reynolds.jpg[/img]

    Lundborg
    [img]Lundborg.jpg[/img]

    Schumate
    [img]Schumate.jpg[/img]

    Toledo
    [img]Toledo.jpg[/img]

    Wilbert
    [img]Wilbert[/img]
    Attached Images Attached Images         

  12. #9
    Member ErieSurfer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    America's North Coast
    Posts
    32
    Thanked: 5

    Default

    Well, that didn't work quite the way I expected. If someone could tell me where I went wrong, I would appreciate the correction. I thought the photos would appear within the text, and that folks would be able to access the large image files.

    Whoops.

  13. #10
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Idaho Redoubt
    Posts
    26,960
    Thanked: 13226
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Start with the Shumate... If the other side looks as good as the front does...

  14. The Following User Says Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:

    ErieSurfer (07-13-2009)

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •