Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 16 of 16
  1. #11
    Scale Maniac BKratchmer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Decorah, IA
    Posts
    2,671
    Thanked: 641

    Default

    [Cue: Non-Sequitor] Dear Glen & Max; I love you. You are the best enablers an addict could ever ask for.

  2. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to BKratchmer For This Useful Post:

    gssixgun (07-11-2009), Maximilian (07-11-2009)

  3. #12
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Idaho Redoubt
    Posts
    26,947
    Thanked: 13221
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default Scale fitting tip !!!!!

    This an old thread I did..

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...tip-bench.html

    That mock Tang also works for pinning, if you have that in there and snug it down with an adjustable set, it will keep you all lined up for putting in the wedge pin... Not too tight or you can't peen down the wedge pin correctly....

  4. #13
    The Razor Whisperer Philadelph's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Rhode Island
    Posts
    2,197
    Thanked: 474

    Default

    Some of my thoughts on the subject...

    Nowadays I make every spacer a wedge. It doesn't have to be drastic, or even very visible depending on materials and flex, but the scales always have a V shape before the blade is pinned.

    I won't go into 'why' because I've written it all out in posts before, but it is definitely the harder route to take. It makes the razor look that much better though. Using a flat wedge leaves the scales open to long term problems IMO and just doesn't look as good in the overall scheme of things.

    I have never glued a wedge in place. If your pins can't hold it all flush, then you either need to work on your pinning, work on your scales, or work on your wedge.

    It's never easy really- I still sometimes have to make 2 or 3 wedges for one set of scales before I get it right. There isn't any measuring involved, so it is really just getting a feel for what will work and how you want it all to fit.

  5. The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Philadelph For This Useful Post:

    ChrisMeyer (07-12-2009), Maximilian (07-11-2009)

  6. #14
    Professional Pedantic Pontificator
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Monmouth, OR - USA
    Posts
    1,163
    Thanked: 317

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    ....if you look at almost every single vintage razor made, guess what you will find???? Yep a wedge shape...
    I was really questioning this last night, but I kept my mouth shut until I could get home an check.

    Sure enough, all of those wedges that I thought were "square," are in fact wedge shaped.

    It's very subtle, and one one of them I was only able to tell it was wedged by comparing it to something I knew to be square.



    Oh well, I've been wrong before; I'll be wrong again.

  7. #15
    Freakin' Ladies Man Hillie's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Bay Area
    Posts
    351
    Thanked: 47

    Default

    I just got my first razor in the mail with a wedge spacer, and I am as of direct a big fan of the wedge!

  8. #16
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Rochester, MN
    Posts
    11,544
    Thanked: 3795
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    Ahhhhhhhh how to explain this one,,,,

    No they do not HAVE to be a wedge...

    But if you look at almost every single vintage razor made, guess what you will find???? Yep a wedge shape...

    The scales have to flex when you open and close the razor if the scales are bowed a tiny bit it allows this to happen and not stress the pins....
    The bowed shape of the scales are stronger... and a bow allows the razor to open and close with more clearance.... Those are all reasons to give it a "wedgie"

    Using newer and stronger materials today then way back when, allows more variation in some of these old rules...

    If you decide to wedge it, the general rule of thumb is to start with material about 1/2 the thickness of the tang and then give it a wedge shape and fit from there...
    This is a perfect representation of the distinction between craftsmanship and "good enough." Thanks for the constant reminder of how it should be done.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •