Thread: wedge shape and scale fit

Does the wedge for the scales have to be a "wedge" or can it be square? Im trying to fit my scales and was wondering if it needed to be a wedge or just more of a spacer.

EDIT**** I'll leave the post below in tact, but it's completely wrong. My next post in the thread explains it.


I've got a total of 7 razors at this point, and only two of them had an actual "wedge" wedge. The others all have just a spacer.


Actually, they've all got a spacer except one, because the one I just rescaled got a home made "square" spacer.

Ahhhhhhhh how to explain this one,,,,

No they do not HAVE to be a wedge...

But if you look at almost every single vintage razor made, guess what you will find???? Yep a wedge shape...

The scales have to flex when you open and close the razor if the scales are bowed a tiny bit it allows this to happen and not stress the pins....
The bowed shape of the scales are stronger... and a bow allows the razor to open and close with more clearance.... Those are all reasons to give it a "wedgie"

Using newer and stronger materials today then way back when, allows more variation in some of these old rules...

If you decide to wedge it, the general rule of thumb is to start with material about 1/2 the thickness of the tang and then give it a wedge shape and fit from there...

I've often wondered why few of the custom rescales I've seen have a wedge shaped spacer and most don't. Then I read someone post that they should all have one but I know that some of the custom razors I've seen also don't and those guys could easily wedge them if it was that important and I know they are experts. Your point about improved materials makes sense. Thanks for the info.

Hey Jimmy BTW this razor has a wedge hehehehe

http://straightrazorpalace.com/galle...s-acrylic.html


It doesn't take much either they dont have to be extreme just a little will do...

Indeed it does Glen and a great job you did on it.

I believe that the wedge shape is meant to relieve undue pressure on the scales. They can be a simple spacer, but i prefer to make mine wedges.

I prefer the wedge shaped spacers, but I discovered that they can be a P.I.T.A. I have been epoxying and pinning my spacers, but the last one I made was going to be easier to pin after the glue dried, or so I thought. When I glued and clamped the wedge into the scales, the epoxy covered wedge squirted right out onto the table. I had to clean all of the parts with acetone, drill out the pin holes, then epoxy, pin, and clamp -pretty much all at the same time. I liked the final look, but I could have avoided all that with a non-tapered spacer.

Originally Posted by ChrisMeyer

I prefer the wedge shaped spacers, but I discovered that they can be a P.I.T.A. I have been epoxying and pinning my spacers, but the last one I made was going to be easier to pin after the glue dried, or so I thought. When I glued and clamped the wedge into the scales, the epoxy covered wedge squirted right out onto the table. I had to clean all of the parts with acetone, drill out the pin holes, then epoxy, pin, and clamp -pretty much all at the same time. I liked the final look, but I could have avoided all that with a non-tapered spacer.

Chris a hint on gluing in wedges...

First off I learned everything I know about restoring razors from one thing and one thing only, I took apart a whole mess of vintage razors when I started this and really took the time to measure, weigh, and observe how they did things, and try and deduce from there the "WHY" of it...

One thing I have noticed is if a wedge is glued in they only glued on side never both.... Now later when plastics started to be used you will find razors with 'No" wedges where they just angled the heel ends of the scales and glued them together... also some that were only glued together at the wedge end and no pins were used...

So I asked myself WHY???

First reason I came up with was that you could still take the razor apart...
The second reason was that it allowed more flex if the wedge was not completely glued in...
Those were my observations and are by no means based on any facts but if you check it out with some mock ups you will find it to be true....

The only reason I would see anyone gluing a wedge would be because of the tapered angle of the wedge sometimes makes it awkward to hold the scales angled when trying to peen.

And like the G said, gluing one side only would make sense it you need to take everything apart again. And probably to make it easier to peen everything together.

With some less flexible materials peening a tapered wedge it sometimes needs a bit more work but Alex 'Philadelph' once told me, if an adjustable screw can hold the tapered wedge perfectly together then a regular brass or nickel silver rod can too. Just try hard enough. And he's right. It all turns down to technique.