Thread: pasting with powders

Originally Posted by importcarguy

I may have applied my crom ox on balsa all wrong from what im reading here. I made a nice balsa paddle and applied the crom with norton honing oil. It went on just like paint. I have been using it everytime i hone with good results but would it be better using another metho? help anyone.

I agree with Randy here. Actually, Norton honing oil is exactly what I use when mixing chrome ox and applying the mixture (just like you've said it is like a thin paint) to balsa, basswood, etc.

As a related aside, I don't like "painting" leather strops with this mixture, only wood. Why? The oil alters the draw of the leather and the chrome ox powder is so fine that it's easily rubbed into dry leather with no need of a carrier; just wipe off the excess dry powder. As an aside related to this aside, I personally don't care for using chrome ox on a hanging strop. For me it's too easy for edge rounding to be a factor for me. I think stropping technique can come into play here.

Chris L

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Hi my name is Glen and I am a complete moron, but is that candle wax??????????

Hi my name is Charlie and I am a moron,

I used beeswax but any type would work.

Now if I can remember where I put my brick, I will go back to honing.

Another way to apply CrOx to a strop is to make a mixture from it with vaseline. You can make a pretty good polishing compound this way.
Made my CrOx strop this way, and it works fine. Besides You can use this compound for polishing a blade, etc.

This post covers my personal effort and results with some pix.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/strop...formation.html

Second on the mineral oil. I used it on a felt paddle strop. Just enough to make the nitrile gloves shiny, then wipe over an area of the felt. Repeat until coated.

Then I grabbed a tiny piece of tinfoil, which I bent into a tiny spoon. After taking a bit of CrOx from the tub, i LIGHTLY sprinkled it over the strop and proceeded to rub it in thoroughly.

The only problem with my method is that the "felt" I used was synthetic, and did not absorb the mineral oil. Using the paddle leaves a faint greenish tinge to the blade which must be removed before proceeding to the leather.

However, this strop is otherwise quite tidy. I guess you can either clean the razor or clean the workplace. Or maybe get some "felt" that would absorb the oil a touch better. I'll have to check to see that this info is still correct, haven't used the paddle since a couple days after it was made, which was a few weeks back.