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Thread: Blade Centering

  1. #11
    Comfortably Numb Del1r1um's Avatar
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    I think he is saying to remove some of the scale material here sham... I have had good luck with doing what charlie is talking about

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  3. #12
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Default For those just joining in the discussion

    We started in this thread first

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/newbi...tml#post443243

    Then we moved it over here when Charlie was kind enough to post the info on moving the blade around for us....

  4. #13
    Senior Member smythe's Avatar
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    In my opinion, the technique for fixing a mis-centered blade in the scales would be dependent on the scale material.

    Wooden scales are inflexible (relatively), so the fix that Charlie suggested will work, as well as the extra washer.
    Plastics such as Celluloid and Acrylic are more flexible and there are a few more ways to fix… some of those fixes may not work for wood.

    So maybe we should keep the scale material in mind.

  5. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth spazola's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hi_bud_gl View Post
    i have a question. My question is this. usually when you clean up the blade you already remove the metal right.

    You are saying instead of putting extra washer just go head remove metal from south side . is this correct?
    thank you
    I was talking about removing wood/scale material from the inside face of the scales. In most cases I think it makes a classier looking fix than extra washers.

    Charlie

  6. #15
    Senior Member blabbermouth spazola's Avatar
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    What a can of worms.

    There are lot of variables that can affect the centering. I only take this step after trying all of the normal fixes first (peening) and knowing that the pinning is correct and the scales are not able to be straightened or bent to suit the situation. It is another approach to try after other techniques have not fixed the problem it is a good way to compensate for poorly ground blades. Even something as small as bumps/ drips from a finish can cause centering problems.

    It is just another arrow in the quiver.

    Charlie
    Last edited by spazola; 08-28-2009 at 02:22 AM.

  7. #16
    Razor honing maniac turbine712's Avatar
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    Thanks everyone with input on this subject. I know that others who had attempted to restore or re-pin blades have run into this issue.
    So, we now know that there are several conditions as to why blades can position themselves off center. I'm sure that we could drill down deep into this subject and we could get lost in the woods however I do have a qusetion that may be a possible condtion to off center blades.

    Would the type of inside washer on the pivot end of the scale have anything to do with the problem of off centered blades?

    I ask this because I have used just the other day some plastic (nylon) washers for the inside pivot. They are not very thin and I suspect that due to their thickness, that during the process pinning the washer does not seem to flatten out. Could this be a cause of not centering the blade and also because of the thickness of the washer the blades mover relatively easy in opening and closing.
    what do others use for the inside washers on the pivot end of the razor?
    Thanks,
    BillW

  8. #17
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    I use thin brass, and they have been using brass washers for 200+ years, with success... I think I'll go with brass...

    I pretty much always go with that axiom when building or fixing razors, "If it has worked for 200+ years who am I to change it"
    Last edited by gssixgun; 08-28-2009 at 02:30 PM.

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  10. #18
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    Here's my two cents; I find that most pivot holes are not round and not perpendicular to the tang. Since these imperfections annoy me and make it harder to center the blade, I usually drill out the hole so that it's square to the tang. I don't worry about making the hole round though, since you'd usually have to make the hole really over-sized. Re-drilling the pivot holes can eliminate some of the problems with centering the blade, although it obviously won't help unless you are re-pinning.

    If your tang is really out of whack, you could always throw it on the surface grinder.

  11. #19
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    Great post, Charlie.
    It is easy to see the logic of your reasoning. Not so easy to see it with peening one side of the pin... (which has worked for me, but only in minor cases)
    I was doing the same as you, with removing material to steer the blade in the right direction. Only, I was not smart enough to figure out that it would be far easier to do on the scales, than on the steel of the razor. I've always sanded steel off the tang, which requires to polish the tang all over again...
    Big thanks for coming up with such an elegant solution,

    Bart.

  12. #20
    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
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    the other possibility is that the scales are not ground symmetrically, which is corrected by filing them a little.

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