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  1. #11
    Senior Member claytor's Avatar
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    Easiest way to stabilize seems to be rough cut it to size (NOT shape because the piece will distort some making your time invested extraneous). After rough cut, put it in some warmed wood hardener and seal it off. When it comes to room temperature pressure differentiation will cause the stabilizer to get pushed into every pore. I think the norm for a piece your size (one piece scale) would be a week to leave it in the hardener. Then you pull it and let it cure.

    I will admit, I've never done it before but I understand the process and have done reading about it. Maybe someone who has hands-on experience could chime in for you.

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    DwarvenChef (09-09-2009)

  3. #12
    Senior Member AirColorado's Avatar
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    A very sweet chunk of wood! Nice contours in the grain - and I suspect it will really pop once it's sealed with something.

    While we're starting to talk about stabilizing materials, I'm wondering if bone must be stabilized - or at the very least sealed. I have a blade with a bone wedge that I may replace and need to find out what needs to be done to it before I simply sand it and pop it into the scales.

  4. #13
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    please post pics when done. that is really great looking piece of wood...good luck

  5. #14
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    Hey DC, give this guy a try, I've had some good dealings with him in the past and no complaints.

    WoodLab - wood stabilization michigan, wood stabilizing, blade smith

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to Carbonsteel928 For This Useful Post:

    DwarvenChef (09-13-2009)

  7. #15
    Hones & Honing randydance062449's Avatar
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    Now that is really some nice wood!
    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin

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