A Buffer Info Thread

[holli4pirating]

I'm currently shopping for a buffer kit, and it seems to me (maybe only because I'm looking into it) that lots of members are getting into or want to get into buffing too. I thought it would be nice to have a single informational thread where members can post about their own gear, where they got it, how they use it, what results they get (pics would be cool) and all that - including safety considerations such as how to use equipment safely, safety gear, good stuff to have in a first aid kit, ventilation related safety and so on.

I'll give it a start, I guess.

I'm still in the shopping phase, but I've had a chance to work on a few different buffers and with a few different compounds at JoeD's place and during my visit to Lynn's. I'm looking at getting a Baldor 114 (you can hunt for Baldor's at retailers on the net or may get lucky on craigslist/ebay), which is a 1/4 horsepower motor that is listed at 1800 RPM. I'm not sure if it will be better to buy it locally for more or order it for less but pay shipping and wait. When I decide, I'll post the info. I have used this buffer a bit at Lynn's, and it seems like a good one. I'm not totally sure how it will work with 8 inch wheels because I only used 6 inch wheels on it at Lynn's so we'll see. The other buffer I was considering was the Caswell 3/4 HP 1100 RPM machine (Caswell is within driving distance, and they also have wheels and compounds, so they will likely be my main source for supplies - they have a website too: Plating Kits Electroplating Kits Aluminum Anodizing Kits Powder Coating Systems Metal Polishing And Buffing Supplies - Caswell Inc.), and I may end up getting that, depending on the price thing. I know it's worth it to pay more for better quality to avoid issues down the road, but maybe if I start with the Caswell I'll end up with two buffers... Also, I've used this same Caswell at JoeD's and Lynn's, and it does also seem like a good machine.

For wheels, I've used sisal and spiral sewn cotton for greaseless - my understanding and based on what I've seen as results is that the sisal is more aggressive, but I'm not totally comfortable with the feedback I get through it, given my very limited experience. I found the spiral sewn cotton to be much smoother and, though it cuts slower, that should help me regulate my work speed and reduce the amount of heat generated, which should both be good for me as a new buffer. I've only used 6 inch wheels with greaseless, which keeps down the heat and cut rate. I may look into smaller ones for more hollow blades in the future, but I've already decided I'm not going to get aggressive on full hollows because they heat up quicker and there is less steel there (more risk of going right through a razor) until I'm more experienced.

After the greaseless stage, I'm actually not totally sure which compounds I used - partly because I only remember colors and partly because my memory is not great. I'll be looking more into a good way to transition from the 600 greaseless to the following stages. I've done this on 8 inch wheels on both the Caswell 1100 referenced above and (I'm pretty sure) a 3/4 HP Baldor at 1800 RPM (I could be mistaken, but I'm quite sure it's a 3/4 HP - not as sure on RPM). From what I can tell, it's these stages after the greaseless where there are lots more options for compounds and rouges, and I'd rather leave this to someone else or save it for when I learn more than try to BS something.

For safety gear, I'm going to look into getting a face shield and leather apron, and I have a 3M 8210 mask. I need to check to see if this mask is sufficient for a buffer. I don't yet know which apron or shield I'll get or where I'll get them, so I'll post details about that later (still researching - help please?). I also still need to look into ventilation. I'm going to be working in the basement of my new apartment (when I move), and my first thought was to close the door to upstairs, open a window or two, and put a air filtration machine between me and the door upstairs. I have to see if that, along with a mask, is adequate, especially since I'll be living right upstairs. I'm undecided on gloves, and need to do research there. I really do value my hands, but I know that the reduced dexterity gloves may cause may be a downfall and some say they cause more problems than they solve.

For first aid, I'm going to look into blood clotting agent, and I'll definitely have gauze and something to bandage/apply pressure (ace bandage or the like). Other than that, I don't really know (help please?). The best advice I got so far was from JoeD and CarrieM, which is never to use the machines while at home alone or without someone near by. If something serious happens, I may not be able to get very far on my own.

When I have a chance, I'll take some photos; I have a blade that Lynn worked on while at JoeD's and one that I worked on on the same setup (the following day, with Lynn's help) to show the difference between what Lynn did and what my first attempt looked like. I also have a blade that I worked on at Lynn's (again, with Lynn's help), to show the limited progress I've made and I suppose you can compare it to the work Lynn does in general on the same setup, again, to show what a novice can expect compared to what Lynn can do.

I guess that's all I can really post for now. Please do chime in if you have the time and the inclination.

[ControlFreak1]

Great post D.

I wonder if anyone can give a review of this one from Grainger
Buffer, 8 In, 120 V, 3/4 HP, 5/8 In Shaft - Buffers - Finishing Supplies - Power Tools & Metalworking : Grainger Industrial Supply it's a 3/4 hp with variable speed, plus there is a Grainger fairly close by for me.

Paper towel and electrical tape make a good quick bandage.

[gssixgun]

Here:

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html

In there is a thread on Greaseless Compounds too... might want to read that...

[holli4pirating]

Thanks, Glen. I try to remember to read stickies, but since I'd searched I didn't think to this time.

/me goes to read

Two great threads, one I had found before, the other I had not. I'm referring to the greaseless and polishing compound threads. Still gotta read through others to see what else I can find.

For reference:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...compounds.html
http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...ials-info.html

[zib]

This is what I'm using right now. All the sides and guards come off so you just have "Wheel". They are held on by quick disconnect devices which I like.
This Buffer/Grinder is also variable speed. It goes down to 1725, i think and up to 3500 give or take. It's good for me for now and the space I have available. Once we move, and I have my own workshop, I'll get something larger. This is fine if your just doing your own blades and/or minimal restores for people, not for someone like Lynn. I use 6 different types of Enkay buffing compounds...

Rich

[ChrisL]

Great post, Holli:

I do urge you to buy some cut proof gloves. At worst, I use a cutproof kevlar glove on the hand I'm holding the razor in when I'm buffing and then my bare hand to stabilize behind the forward trajectory. It would be a stretch for a razor to completely sever a digit, but conversely, as you can imagine, a flung razor would cut deeply in an instant. Yes, the gloves prevent you from feeling the temp of the steel. I don't see this as a problem since even a little practice using practice blades of various grinds will give you a feel of how quickly a full hollow heats up vs. a wedge and using one level of pressure vs. another. Buff, away....., buff.....away. As you already know, buffing must be done in short or very short intervals. A container of water works well to dip the blade in to cool it down.

I've never been seriously injured in my life; a broken bone and various stitches, but the thought of seriously cutting my fingers or hands keeps me wearing at least one kevlar glove when buffing. They're pretty thin and loosely woven actually. You can grip a razor well with them.

Woodcraft sells kevlar gloves and they're inexpensive for the safety they provide.

I have approx 25 pair of some kevlar fingerless wrist and forearm protectors. If there was enough of an interest in them, I'd snap a photo of what they look like and put them in the classifieds? They provide no protection for fingers or thumbs though....

I would love to see the photos of the razors that you and Lynn worked on. Thanks for doing this.

Chris L

[holli4pirating]

Hm, those Enkay compounds look like the Caswell one's, but Caswell's are a bit bigger and list a larger weight. I wonder if they are indeed the same compounds or just the same color at each level with a different composition... Very curious...

[holli4pirating]

Great post, Holli:

I do urge you to buy some cut proof gloves. At worst, I use a cutproof kevlar glove on the hand I'm holding the razor in when I'm buffing and then my bare hand to stabilize behind the forward trajectory. It would be a stretch for a razor to completely sever a digit, but conversely, as you can imagine, a flung razor would cut deeply in an instant.

Woodcraft sells kevlar gloves and they're inexpensive for the safety they provide.

I have approx 25 pair of some kevlar fingerless wrist and forearm protectors. If there was enough of an interest in them, I'd snap a photo of what they look like and put them in the classifieds? They provide no protection for fingers or thumbs though....

Chris L

I have looked at Woodcraft for a respirator and face shield, since I can go over to the local one, so I'll see about gloves there too. Their aprons are rather inexpensive, which makes me worry about how much protection they will provide. I know inexpensive doesn't always mean bad, but when leather is inexpensive it usually means something...

I had thought about some sort of arm protection, as all I'm really seeing are aprons that don't cover anything past the shoulders or welding jackets with leather on the arms but cotton on the torso. Arm protectors and an apron sounds like a good setup. I'd be interested in seeing photos for sure.

[ChrisL]

Here you go. Forgive the poor photo quality. You can stretch these out which is good because they come pretty snug. A guy with large biceps (not me) would find them too restrictive. They're 24" long:





Chris L

[holli4pirating]

I'm on the small side, so no worries there. I may be interested; I'll definitely keep it in mind.

While I'm posting, I saw this: Tabletop Dust Fitting - Rockler Woodworking Tools and thought maybe it could be rigged up to a ShopVac with a good filter. I would guess the Shopvac would need to have a fair bit of power to provide suction at such a large surface area and for such a large volume of air, but it seems like a possibility. Maybe set it bedind the buffer with another larger backing (plywood or a plastic cloth to catch extra spray) and then leave the ShopVac running after you're done to pull dust out of the air.

ShopVac or other vacuum, I should say. The name ShopVac just came to me and I started looking at them first. Most seem to come with a 3 year warantey with an option to get extra, so a lot of continuous running shouldn'd be a problem... I think. Are there better vacuums out there?