Thread: How do i get rid of very light oxidation?

I've got a Genco Next Razor that has some very light oxidation mainly on the heel of the edge. I've used metal polish, then went to a medium rubbing compound without luck. I hate to use anything much more abrasive because the rest of the blade is really good, other than one small spot that looks like something acidic was on it,but I'm resigned to dealing with that. I've read through the wiki but most of advice there is for cleaning up heavily oxidized or rusted blades. Any tips would be most appreciated as I'd like to get this thing ready to send out for honing.

How about leaving well enough alone ? That is what I do in that situation. The alternative is sandpaper AFAIK and then your into doing the whole blade.

I'd say go with Jimmy's advice, or get a quote from the fella doing the honing, if they do resto's too. Many of the guys charge great prices for work that takes us amateurs an age.

I was given one of these little slicers by a good friend here, now I always thought the mark on mine was from an errant Dremel or engraver but after reading your post I wonder...

Does yours look anything like this, BTW it is too deep in such a fine edge to take out on this one...
These razors take an incredible shaving edge, when honed correctly, I mean really good...

Originally Posted by Strikur

I've got a Genco Next Razor that has some very light oxidation mainly on the heel of the edge. I've used metal polish, then went to a medium rubbing compound without luck. I hate to use anything much more abrasive because the rest of the blade is really good, other than one small spot that looks like something acidic was on it,but I'm resigned to dealing with that. I've read through the wiki but most of advice there is for cleaning up heavily oxidized or rusted blades. Any tips would be most appreciated as I'd like to get this thing ready to send out for honing.

It's probably light pitting which unfortunately will not go away with any of your products mentioned. It will need some greaseless or sandpaper and only depending how deep the pitting goes as it's close to the edge making the steel to thin especially if it's a full hollow. Watch those fingers too.

Here's a pic, please excuse the graininess. Photography is a new thing to me, and I'm at the mercy of an older digital camera. There's no deep pitting like you have sixgun, but you can see the spot an inch from the toe(where I think something acidic dropped on it), and the darkness that follows the heel is the light oxidation. It's just enough that I can't get a mirrorlike finish with, however I can deal with them for the sake of not doing any heavier work. Also the plastic scales on mine are in great shape except for the paint in the Next engraving being gone, but the factory did a lousy job lining them up,so I've got a nice set of older black bakelite scales I'm considering transplanting. On a sidenote, the bakelite scale I have has a small nick from a badly maligned blade, can bakelite be sanded down to remove nicks without too much finish work?

It's hard to see in that pic, On your camera, are you able to hold down the button half way, so it can focus before you fully press it to take a pic...? As far as your blade, I'd go with Jimmy's advice as well, and just leave it alone if you intend to keep and use the blade, otherwise, your looking at progressive sanding and polishing with a buffer and compounds you probably don't have. I have some blades with water spots that just don't come out, and they're fine...

I'm sure you can sand out the nick in the scales, depending on depth, you could wind up with uneven scales and without a buffer, it'd be hard to remove the scratches left behind. I'm no expert, like Max and Glen, but I've done some work on my own stuff..If it means that much to you, send it out to one of the guys here for resto....

Well if i modify one of the new scales I'll bolt them together and remove the material equally and make them both the same.
Ok and here's a Jerry rigging question, I have a rotozip that I'd like to mount to a drill press stand, similar to what dremel offers,but rotozip doesn't offer a drill press attachment. I had considered picking up an old craftsman setup for mounting hand drills too, then I though...wait what if you could turn in on its side and have a center to turn it into a small lathe,thoughts and advice deeply appreciated on this. The rotozip is really heavy duty but I might be pushing it to try and get some micro lathe work from it.