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Thread: Buffer Question

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    Senior Member Soilarch's Avatar
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    Default Buffer Question

    I'm looking really hard at a buffer. Need a little push over the edge.

    I've done a couple blades with sandpaper and have a dozen more on the table. I've got all my materials ready to go.

    I would be getting a cheaper one. (No Baldors, Caswell has a starter pack for a little over $100.) I figure on another $100 for PPE

    The real question is if they are "worth it" for a guy who want to do maybe a dozen a year and sell just enough of them to feed his R/HAD?

    The second question is just how "fast" are they? I've done handsanding, and so I know it really really depends on how bad the blade is to start out with. By hand it takes me a week of working on the blades at night. (Most of mine start out pretty rough)

    So are we talking 2 or 3 evening on a buffer...or more like 2 or 3 hours?

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Joed's Avatar
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    I started out with a bench grinder and still use it to compliment my Caswell buffer. To just buff the blades it goes really quick. When you get into the greaseless compounds the time required depends on your experience. Be aware that the amount of of grinding you can perform on a hollow ground razor is limited. Also, SAFETY FIRST, LAST AND ALWAYS! Very easy to get a major hurt with a buffing motor or bench grinder.
    “If you always do what you always did, you will always get what you always got.” (A. Einstein)

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    Brad Maggard Undream's Avatar
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    depends on the amount of pitting, but, I'd say 2-3 hours is probably a fair average estimate.

    Remember, not only do you need the buffer, but, you also need 3-4 wheels of the same diameter to hold your greaseless compounds..and then you need 2 additional wheels (one for emery, one for a white rouge..as a barebone setup..)...

    At $6-7 a pop, they add up...and the compounds themselves will run you $50-60...

    Suggestions -- buy two wheels for 80 grit...you can use one wheel while the other wheel's greaseless compound dries...since you'll be using 80grit to do all of the pitting removal.

    When you buy yourself a buffer (or cheaper bench grinder..) make sure you can remove the guards (if its a grinder) and make 100% sure it is a 1700-1800 rpm motor.... you don't want to be doing greaseless compounds on a 3400rpm buffer..if you can find a variable speed 1700-3400 that would be cool because you can do some high speed buffing work with it too..

    If you don't have a respirator, you'll need one of those too...and then,..a leather apron...

    Expenses add up. a $100 bench grinder ends up costing $350 after you get what you need to use it.

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    zib
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    If your using it as Hobbyist, I'd go for the Delta adjustable speed buffer/grinder. It's great, once you take off all the safety guards, etc...I use Enkay buffing compounds, here's a pic of it with the safety guards on.
    It works great if it's just for your razors, and then some....I like the fact that it adjusts from 1725 or so up 3500, so it multi tasks....

    P.S. I got it at Lowes on sale no less, What a great day that was....
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    Last edited by zib; 01-14-2010 at 02:39 PM.
    We have assumed control !

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    BF4 gamer commiecat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soilarch View Post
    I'm looking really hard at a buffer. Need a little push over the edge.

    I've done a couple blades with sandpaper and have a dozen more on the table. I've got all my materials ready to go.

    I would be getting a cheaper one. (No Baldors, Caswell has a starter pack for a little over $100.) I figure on another $100 for PPE

    The real question is if they are "worth it" for a guy who want to do maybe a dozen a year and sell just enough of them to feed his R/HAD?

    The second question is just how "fast" are they? I've done handsanding, and so I know it really really depends on how bad the blade is to start out with. By hand it takes me a week of working on the blades at night. (Most of mine start out pretty rough)

    So are we talking 2 or 3 evening on a buffer...or more like 2 or 3 hours?
    There's also some great info on this thread:
    http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...fo-thread.html

    I'm also looking into one and leaning heavily towards the Harbor Freight 6" based on Glen's comments:
    - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

    It's 0.5HP and 3450 RPM (manual says 3600 RPM) and they're pretty cheap. Now I was also worried about the constant high RPM, but the G-man says he uses his slower buffer for final polish [permalink]. For $50 I'm willing to give it a try.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    RPMs are quoted a lot, but are not the whole story. If you have a meaty machine capable of taking different sized wheels, then you have to consider the rate that the wheel surface is moving across the razor - surface feet per minute (sfpm).

    If you have a rpm rate of 1725 with an 8 inch wheel, the sfpm rate is 3450.

    If you have a rpm rate of 1725 with a 6 inch wheel, the sfpm rate is 2588.

    Using the same machine and a 4 inch wheel the sfpm rate is the same - 1725.

    It is not of much importance if you buy a buffer that is designed for one size of wheel, though, but worth bearing in mind if buy a larger buffer: by using different wheel diameters you can vary the sfpm to suit the job. It is probably of more importance in the UK where variable speed buffers are rare and expensive or too small and underpowered to do an efficient job.

    My solution was to buy a purpose made heavy duty spindle and connect it to a motor with a step-pulley and v-belt.

    Regards,
    Neil

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    BF4 gamer commiecat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neil Miller View Post
    RPMs are quoted a lot, but are not the whole story. If you have a meaty machine capable of taking different sized wheels, then you have to consider the rate that the wheel surface is moving across the razor - surface feet per minute (sfpm).

    If you have a rpm rate of 1725 with an 8 inch wheel, the sfpm rate is 3450.

    If you have a rpm rate of 1725 with a 6 inch wheel, the sfpm rate is 2588.

    Using the same machine and a 4 inch wheel the sfpm rate is the same - 1725.
    I invoke the Law of Calvin!


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    Senior Member blabbermouth niftyshaving's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Undream View Post
    .......
    Remember, not only do you need the buffer, but, you also need
    ......
    If you don't have a respirator, you'll need one of those too...and then,..a leather apron...
    .......
    +1 on the safety gear.

    Also dust exhaust venting.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by commiecat View Post
    I invoke the Law of Calvin!

    The Law of Calvin - I like that!

    The examples above were given using a rough formula of 0.25 the wheel diameter (in inches) multiplied by the rpm. I have just googled "surface feet per minute" and it appears that there are lots of online calculators that do it more accurately.

    Regards,
    Neil

  14. #10
    Senior Member Soilarch's Avatar
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    I had planned on the apron, have a respirator for some of my current chores, but did not realize the compounds themselves where that expensive.

    Unfortunately (or perhaps, it's fortunately?) I've learn time and time again that "the tool" or "the toy" is only a fraction of the cost.


    I went back to the Caswell site. I had thought they had a 1/4hp 1725 "kit" for around a $100...and I was completely wrong. They have a 1/3hp 3400 "kit"...don't think that's what I'm looking. Apparently I got the Caswell offerings and the Baldor offerings confused. Baldors are out of my price range. (Although I'm sure they're worth it. They're what we have on most of our grainbin load-out augers...and that's a legit task.)

    So it looks like Zib's delta suggestion may be the ticket. $100 bucks for the grinder + Caswell Inc. - Buffing Kits for $57 (s+h) Sets me at about $170...

    ....which brings me to two more questions, if I may.

    Aprons: Seems a lot of things marketed to "woodworking" are high priced to me. I guess woodworking is an effluent hobby? Anyway, instead of a 'turner's apron' wouldn't a welder's apron+arm chaps work AND cover my arms? Those things are rough but they're cheaper, and cover more real estate. They're rawhide, don't see how a turner's apron can be much thicker or tougher.

    Wheels...is it better to be oversized (6" on hollow-grind) or undersized (4" on wedge)?

    Thanks

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