Thread: Preserving the stickers on my Trumper soap bowls

I've had my Geo F. Trumper rose and sandalwood soaps for a few weeks now. I keep them above the sink in my small bathroom, where there is high humidity and moisture content in the air during showers. Now the labels are starting to sort of "bubble up in wrinkles" and I was fortunate enough to get GFT to mail me replacement stickers for the bowls.

Now I am faced with the task of trying to preserve the replacement stickers on the bowl so I can keep it looking like new for years and years (and so I don't have to keep replacing them). I have thought about peeling the old stickers off, then placing the new ones on and spraying a clear varnish on there to seal it off from moisture. Would that work? Does anyone have suggestions?

I would try it on one first. The varnish might cause the sticker to bubble up.

Originally Posted by mackie

I would try it on one first. The varnish might cause the sticker to bubble up.

LOL, wouldn't that be ironic. hmmm now I'm worried.

Why not peel off one of the old stickers and apply it some similar piece of wood and varnish over that. You will be able to see if any additional damage is done and, if so, take another course.

Regards - Walt

I like when the stickers come off that way my wife doesn't know exactly how many soaps I actually have.

What about acrylic spray?

There is a substance that is used to spray on charcoal drawings to stop them smudging. I would try that stuff.

All Product Details for Fixatives for Charcoal and Pastels - BLICK art materials

I never used the stuff myself but looked it up for you (keeps me out of mischief!)

I may be wrong, butI believe these fixatives only stabilize the powdery medium of pastels and charcoal to prevent them from smudging and allowing additional layers of the medium to be applied. I don't believe these will seal and waterproof the sticker as the poster intended.

Regards - Walt

This one advertises moisture resistance:

Golden Archival Spray Varnish - BLICK art materials

The trick to putting a clear coat over printed paper is to make sure that the solvents in the clear coat are not the same solvents that will make the ink run or the adhesive come loose. Oil based regular varnish (Golden's MSA is good stuff , everything Golden makes is quality) works well a lot of the time. Aerosols are also a good bet because you can put on dust coats that are not wet enough to allow the ink to flow or loosen the adhesive. Put on multiple light coats and let them dry before putting on a wet coat that will flow out.



Charlie