Thread: Buffer RPM questions

Here is another option for a variable speed buffer. Takes more work but.....

http://straightrazorpalace.com/forge...fer-setup.html

The first pic is what I am referring to.

Originally Posted by Joed

I also fine that the lower SFM gives a better polish. I'm sure that there are other techniques that can give the same results at a higher surface speed. Be sure to check the Caswell link I posted to this thread earlier for the best 'Cut' and 'polish' methods.

Thanks Joe. I read through that once, but I will make sure to refer back to it a few times so as to retain the info.

The reason I use a variable Delta is completely about price. It is the cheapest ~1750rpm motor you can buy, basically (I think I paid $115 for it), and, I do occaisionally dial it up to 3400 for certain things, which is nice.

I just wanted to clear it up that if money were no object, i wouldn't recommend it. Obviously baldor or caswell would be preferred.

Also, as Glen has mentioned, the motor gets in the way when using 4" wheels, I have to move my wheel to the other side in order to do the other side of the blade. Pretty big annoyance, costs me a few minutes overall. 3" or 2" wheels are impossible to use on it.

For 6" & 8" wheels though, it works great, no clearance issues with the motor. 8" wheel @ 1750 is too fast though, IMO. you really need an 1100rpm buffer if you want to use 8" or 10" wheels for greaseless.

I really like about 2500sf/m for greaseless. I dial up my 4" wheels to about 2400rpm to acheive that speed, and run my 6" wheels at 1750rpm...which yields ~2650sf/m.

Originally Posted by Undream

The reason I use a variable Delta is completely about price. It is the cheapest ~1750rpm motor you can buy, basically (I think I paid $115 for it), and, I do occaisionally dial it up to 3400 for certain things, which is nice.

I just wanted to clear it up that if money were no object, i wouldn't recommend it. Obviously baldor or caswell would be preferred.

Also, as Glen has mentioned, the motor gets in the way when using 4" wheels, I have to move my wheel to the other side in order to do the other side of the blade. Pretty big annoyance, costs me a few minutes overall. 3" or 2" wheels are impossible to use on it.

For 6" & 8" wheels though, it works great, no clearance issues with the motor. 8" wheel @ 1750 is too fast though, IMO. you really need an 1100rpm buffer if you want to use 8" or 10" wheels for greaseless.

I really like about 2500sf/m for greaseless. I dial up my 4" wheels to about 2400rpm to acheive that speed, and run my 6" wheels at 1750rpm...which yields ~2650sf/m.

Thanks for your input Brad. I'm probably going to go with the Caswell 1100 buffer since it's not that much more than what I've been able to find the Delta at. It's much slower than other wheels, which means I'll have to spend more time on it, I think, but I prefer that to something that's quicker but more likely to cause damage.

Originally Posted by heirkb

Thanks for your input Brad. I'm probably going to go with the Caswell 1100 buffer since it's not that much more than what I've been able to find the Delta at. It's much slower than other wheels, which means I'll have to spend more time on it, I think, but I prefer that to something that's quicker but more likely to cause damage.

or use bigger wheels if you can fit and feel comfortable with for higher SFM speeds.

I have read through this old post and have a question.

According to what i read 8000 SF/m is optimal for steel buffing but other than faster work(getting more done faster) does it hurt anything to go REAL slow like 200 RPM using 4 inch buffing wheels? I am not going to do the math but that would be real low SF/m if i were to use greasless compound and go 200 RPM using my mini lathe for safety reasons would it produce bad results or just take forever? Which i dont mind...

I played around tonight and chucked up a 2" x 1.5" rubber sanding drum in the mini lathe. And had good results tonight cleaning up a razor. I made my own sanding drums, by wrapping them in tape(sticky side out) then wrapping in wet dry paper i went from 120grit to 600grit and due to the very slow speed my paper never tore off. It was in my opinion easier and faster than hand sanding. And almost as safe...for clearence i just reversed the direction and worked on the other side of the drum. As i said it was slow enough i felt safe doing this.

I had the idea to try out some 2" or 3" or 4" buffing wheels and using greasless compounds chucked up in the mini lathe at 200rpm. I can't think any reason it won't work other than taking forever...
Pleaee offer up any opinions you have...

Ken rupkalvis told me about a thing you can put on it to lower or raise your rpm's

Sidmind,
Using the low speeds like 200rpm is where the sandpaper will shine. Use it up to at least 2k. You will be amazed how shiny your restored blade looks. Then you can take some rouge to a fresh wheel and finish it off to a nice and mirrored polish.

Originally Posted by shooter74743

Sidmind,
Using the low speeds like 200rpm is where the sandpaper will shine. Use it up to at least 2k. You will be amazed how shiny your restored blade looks. Then you can take some rouge to a fresh wheel and finish it off to a nice and mirrored polish.

I did that for years. there is a thread about it in the workshop somewhere.
I had a very cheap low rpm grinder with a 4" wheel. I just mounted strips of sandpaper on the wheel using double sided tape.
Work your way up to 2000 grit and the surface will be unbelievably smooth and shiny. From there you can finish with a bit of polishing compound.

It sounds like I should just skip my idea of spending all the money on greasless compounds and 4 inch buffing wheels, and stick to what I have around already.

I like it only I need to design some drums that are softer and slightly larger, the 2 inch diameter was just slightly smaller than the hollow grind radius, I think I can build some new drums out of wood and rubber tubing or something, then chuck them up in the mini lathe between the live center, and have plenty room on each side.

hmmmm... now I have to start designing something.