Thread: Am i cheating?

I always use pins. In my opinion it looks strange to see a 100+ year old razor with modern mechanics attached, but a modern straight razor would be a different story.

I wouldn't use the hex heads for a finished product myself, but they are priceless during the scale making process. If I had to use adjustable pins, I'd probably do a Torx screw instead and sink it into the scales. But that would be a very particular look.

From what I can tell, the two sides of a micro-fastener aren't the same size. Maybe it's just an optical illusion...

If you're worried about the fasteners coming loose, a drop of 242 (blue) Loctite on the threads will put a stop to that, but still allow you to break it loose if you need to. You can also try 222 (purple) for a weaker bond, 262 (red) if you want it more or less permanent.

Fred

The one major advantage is that you can easily take the razor apart to remove any rust/discoloration on the tang that WILL! eventually occur.
The Loctite idea is a good one.


Just my $.02

Adjustable/removable pins make it possible to more reliably do a good job of fitting the scales to the blade. With peened pins, you don't know what the blade is going to do until you've peened it in place and it's too late to make any adjustments. When I was using pins I would routinely pin a razor three or four times before everything worked properly. The unpinning process involves either a drill or files, both of which can destroy your scales in a heartbeat. Add in the possibility of bending the pin while peening, and you've got a major pain in the butt situation on your hands.

Josh

They've peened for centuries and it's still the most aesthetically for a razor, if done properly. It has worked for centuries so I don't see a need to change.

It's also easier to rectify small issues with razors not fully centering when peening.

That's one of the main negatives when using a pivot barrel with the 2 torx screws. If the blade is not straight you have some problems. So for the new custom razor makers it's easier to use those as they can easily pre drill the pivot hole to 1/8" and in general those new razors are straight to start with.

Some also use a long torx screw with a flat hex nut to tighten it all. Aesthetically not as beautiful but easy to apply.

The micro fasteners are a bit bulky at the head and nut but when I do use them when requested I sand them down a bit and use the blue loctite.

All have their pros and cons.

Originally Posted by JoshEarl

... With peened pins, you don't know what the blade is going to do until you've peened it in place and it's too late to make any adjustments. When I was using pins I would routinely pin a razor three or four times before everything worked properly...

I'm with Josh - I usually need a few shots at the wedge before the blade is centering perfectly, that's why I use the adjustable pins when I'm making scales. I can throw it together and get a sense of what it'll look like, then make adjustments as necessary without the hassle of peening a razor 3 or 4 times before getting it right.

I generally prefer things done as they've always been done... in a more traditional manner.
I've been changing my tune of late, after seeing Torx screws instead of traditional pins in the actions of the fantastic shotguns of Ivo Fabbri.. some of the finest, and most expensive in the world...

FABBRI - Home Page

Ditto, some razors take a few times to get it all right.

I think if you like the look of them and they give the result you like, then go for it..! If you're happy with them, then thats all that matters.