Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 14 of 14

Thread: scale inlays

  1. #11
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Bodalla, NSW
    Posts
    15,595
    Thanked: 3747

    Default

    Good point. I'd probably want to fix it.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

  2. #12
    Senior Member heirkb's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Posts
    553
    Thanked: 243

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    There a few threads in the Gallery that talk about inlay lifts and transfers, but I am going to give you some warnings here you can listen or not....
    Can anyone post a link to these threads? I've been searching for them for a while now and can't seem to find them.

  3. #13
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    North Idaho Redoubt
    Posts
    26,948
    Thanked: 13221
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by heirkb View Post
    Can anyone post a link to these threads? I've been searching for them for a while now and can't seem to find them.
    Here is one of the first ones, Dan/Floppyshoes and I did it some time back

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...-gssixgun.html

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:

    heirkb (04-26-2010)

  5. #14
    Senior Member floppyshoes's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Montreal, Quebec
    Posts
    610
    Thanked: 147

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post

    I use CA if I am going to custom wood scales now, and continue with a CA finish...CA under any other finish shows and it doesn't look clean...
    I've had this problem too.
    Experimentation led me to the following solution:

    1. Apply CA without clouding (okay I know this goes without saying but it's crucial for obvious reasons)
    2. Let cure at least an hour or two AFTER it is hardened
    3. level any imperfections and scuff the surface all over. Steel wool is good for this.
    4. Wipe the surface with a lint-free cloth damp with acetone
    5. Apply a wash coat of clear shellac (1lb cut will do)
    6. Lightly scuff, then clean with a damp rag or tack cloth
    7. You're ready to topcoat with almost anything

    This is what I do for crack/dent filling with CA on things like burls where you have knots and holes but want a flat finish.

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •