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Thread: scale inlays

  1. #11
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Good point. I'd probably want to fix it.
    The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.

  2. #12
    Senior Member heirkb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    There a few threads in the Gallery that talk about inlay lifts and transfers, but I am going to give you some warnings here you can listen or not....
    Can anyone post a link to these threads? I've been searching for them for a while now and can't seem to find them.

  3. #13
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by heirkb View Post
    Can anyone post a link to these threads? I've been searching for them for a while now and can't seem to find them.
    Here is one of the first ones, Dan/Floppyshoes and I did it some time back

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...-gssixgun.html

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    heirkb (04-26-2010)

  5. #14
    Senior Member floppyshoes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post

    I use CA if I am going to custom wood scales now, and continue with a CA finish...CA under any other finish shows and it doesn't look clean...
    I've had this problem too.
    Experimentation led me to the following solution:

    1. Apply CA without clouding (okay I know this goes without saying but it's crucial for obvious reasons)
    2. Let cure at least an hour or two AFTER it is hardened
    3. level any imperfections and scuff the surface all over. Steel wool is good for this.
    4. Wipe the surface with a lint-free cloth damp with acetone
    5. Apply a wash coat of clear shellac (1lb cut will do)
    6. Lightly scuff, then clean with a damp rag or tack cloth
    7. You're ready to topcoat with almost anything

    This is what I do for crack/dent filling with CA on things like burls where you have knots and holes but want a flat finish.

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