Thread: Thiers-Issard Restoration

Originally Posted by souschefdude

My sanitary concerns of pits has less to do with old germs from previous users, more to do with Rust restarting in those pits, and the little microbials that live on the rust, which can give Lockjaw.

Fear not! As I know it, tetanus has no special affinity for rust. Rather, it is a microbe which lives in soil and does best when introduced into deep muscle wounds.... most of the items our forebears received deep tissue wounds from were surprises on the farm-- rusty old nail, etc... hence the correlation between lockjaw and rust, although there is no causation.

Happy shaving!

BK, I just went and did some quick reading on Tetanus, and it coincides with what you said. I suffer from Old Wives Tale on this one.

So no concerns about using a pitted razor then? I guess it is no different form one that is etched.....as long as the active rust is removed...

Originally Posted by souschefdude

BK, I just went and did some quick reading on Tetanus, and it coincides with what you said. I suffer from Old Wives Tale on this one.

So no concerns about using a pitted razor then? I guess it is no different form one that is etched.....as long as the active rust is removed...

Clean, Bright, steel is the most sanitary, Mirror is the most rust resistant...

Just because there are pits, doesn't mean they can't be clean, bright, shiny pits...

If it is rust (red, black, devil's spit, spider, whatever rust) it should be cleaned out, IMHO... it of course is your face, so you do what you want...

wanted to get some pics back to you guys and I need some guidance. I'm sanding by hand with 800 grit. I'm at a cross road here because if I sand any more I'll lose the etching (which really makes this a cool blade) but to stop now would leave some pitting that I could definitly get out if I keep going. I know it's a preference thing but I would still appreciate some feedback. The other question I have, I took about 1/32 off the blade to get rid of a chip on the front end. To start the new edge should I start with 220 grit or 1000 grit (i have norton waterstone)

If that blade has a hollowed grind (it looks to me like it's at least a bit hollow), I wouldn't really push it with the sanding. You'll never be able to completely remove the deeper pits without damaging the blade. It looks good enough at this point to be a nice blade for your rotation.

Thanks Heirk,

Any suggestions on the honing?

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Full credit to gssixgun for that one. He's said it enough times for it to sink into my thick skull

absolutely great advice... I don't know which of the guys I heard it from first, but I have definitely taken this advice from our resident experts. And I don't think it can be said too many times.. it is the edge that we who use straights are primarily concerned with. The rest is just making things pretty!

Point taken

Thank you

If I restore a razor and the edge is questionable I start at 220.

Don't take this as a definitive method, but I would give the razor 15-20 strokes on a 1k and see what the bevel looks like under magnification. Then keep doing strokes to see if you can get to clean steel.