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  1. #1
    Senior Member NoseWarmer's Avatar
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    Default Question on 1st Restoration

    Well I aquired this Sheffield from BKratchmer at the meet yesterday. It was, IS in very bad shape but we talked a little about what it needed(s)...

    I'm very bad at taking the "Before" and "After" pic's, but Ben can attest to the shape of the blade...

    First off you will all "cringe" when I tell you that I put on my bench grinder with a wire wheel, but there was LOT'S of rust...

    The blade was already short and whom ever did it, managed to grind off things that shouldn't been ground off... Like some of the markings...

    I just checked the blade and there is a "smile" and not a frown.

    After I hit it with the wheel, I used my small sander with some 320 grit wd paper... shined it up nice.

    Now... the question...

    I noticed the pin hole is oblong... what do I need to do when it comes time to pin it in the scales? I'm guessing that with a larger hole than 1/16" there will be some "slop"...

    Do I move up in pin size or what?

    P.S.: The blade never got above "warm" and the deer antler in the top pic is what I'm planning to use for the scales...



    Last edited by NoseWarmer; 11-08-2010 at 01:47 AM.

  2. #2
    Senior Member TrilliumLT's Avatar
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    i had the same problem with one of my bokers and all i did was cut a peice of brass tube with a 1/16" centre and used it as a bushing. Y tubing can be found at most hobby shops. I hope this helps.

    Good luck with the resto

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  4. #3
    Senior Member NoseWarmer's Avatar
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    I was thinking that if the hole was "cleaned", if a little JB weld could be used and then redrilled?

  5. #4
    lz6
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    Senior Member blabbermouth lz6's Avatar
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    + 1 on the above recommendation for 1/16 brass tubing. I have done this several times and it works like a charm. Just size it to be flush or a touch less than flush.
    Bob

    "God is a Havana smoker. I have seen his gray clouds" Gainsburg

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  7. #5
    Senior Member Legion's Avatar
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    I've had success filling the hole with two part epoxy and then drilling a 1/16" hole through that.

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  9. #6
    what Dad calls me nun2sharp's Avatar
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    I have used the tubing and it works quite well. I think you should move up the grits and sand it some more unless you really like the vintage look.
    It is easier to fool people than to convince them they have been fooled. Twain

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  11. #7
    ..mama I know we broke the rules... Maxi's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Legion View Post
    I've had success filling the hole with two part epoxy and then drilling a 1/16" hole through that.
    Yup. Me too. Works great. Just keep the epoxy well away from the blade, and transport a drop at a time with a pin/needle or toothpick. Even at that, my first attempt was a bloody disaster!

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  13. #8
    Senior Member NoseWarmer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nun2sharp View Post
    I have used the tubing and it works quite well. I think you should move up the grits and sand it some more unless you really like the vintage look.
    That was just my 10 minute "take a look" at what's under the rust... It is a very smooth blade... I'll work on it some more in the morning... I can't wait to see what it/I can do...

  14. #9
    Senior Member Brando's Avatar
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    There is a whole step by step tutorial in the Wiki by gssixgun heres the link
    Last edited by Brando; 11-09-2010 at 08:16 AM.

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