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  1. #11
    Senior Member souschefdude's Avatar
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    What is your sanding method?
    Awesome job on razor and scales.

  2. #12
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by smythe View Post
    I suspect he’s referring to some other “odd angle” or curve in the scales, because all original ERN ATOR scales have that “slick” curve design. I suspect because of the shape of the blade or the position of the “humped” tang with respect to the spine.
    There’s at least one photo in the SRP Razor database.

    Incidentally, most (if not all) ATOR razors have the model number stamped on the tang, the same number is also molded on the inside of the scales. The 6/8th model having the numbers “G.M. 142302 68”, and the 5/8th model having the numbers “G.M. 142302 58”.

    It is a shame about the scales; it would have been nice to have originals preserved. But I must admit, the blade is restored close to original considering the tarnishing it had.

    Yes exactly, look right under the "O" they seem to be almost pushed inward there, like either they got hot or perhaps not a good original mold seal???? not sure if these were "Molded" when they were made, I would imagine they were...

    Honestly though, I probably would have pulled them anyway, since it is my razor and they do really nothing for me, I happen to like bright colored scales, I will save them on the bench just in case somebody needs them, who likes them...
    Last edited by gssixgun; 11-15-2010 at 01:01 AM.

  3. #13
    lz6
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    Senior Moderator lz6's Avatar
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    Nice work as always! I really like the shape of that blade and the scales jjust make it all work together.
    Bob

    "God is a Havana smoker. I have seen his gray clouds" Gainsburg

  4. #14
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Well nice first shave, but I was testing with the Charlney Forest so I am betting it can be way better...
    After honing, I went with no stropping at all, just to see what I could do with it..
    Straight on the face soap lather pretty crappy prep really then WTG pass re-lather and a Multi- Directional pass CWR and done... DFS but not BBS perfectly acceptable for work if I wanted to... Going to strop it in, and try again just to see the difference just stropping makes...


    smythe:
    I went out to the shop to shut it down and looked inside the scales, and as usual when it comes to rules in razordom there really ain't any...

    Just for info in case you keep track of stuff like this which it seems you do..
    These scales were molded with the GM 142302 just like you said, but were molded with a separate number away from the last, which was 245 5/8 written just that way... Thought you might want to know, I will look through my box of scales to see if I have more...

  5. #15
    Lookin like a crim baldy's Avatar
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    Congratulations Glen that turned out beautiful.
    What a satisfying day, I average about a month per razor.
    "I aint like that no more...my wife, she cured me of drinking and wickedness"
    Clint Eastwood as William Munny in Unforgiven

  6. #16
    Senior Member Alembic's Avatar
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    Glen,

    I never get tired of looking at your work - particularly the WIP. I love the before and after pics - but the progression is really instructive for me.

    Thanks.

    David

  7. #17
    Str8 & Loving It BladeRunner001's Avatar
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    Wowww Glen...I can't believe the "before" and "after" of this blade. What a phenomenal transformation . Great job

    BTW: love the pea**** feathers in the foreground. Nice touch with gorgeous colors.

  8. #18
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Thanks Robert I will let the Wifey know her idea was noticed hehehe

  9. #19
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Smile

    Quote Originally Posted by souschefdude View Post
    What is your sanding method?
    Awesome job on razor and scales.

    I use Buffers with Greaseless compound from Formax 80-600

    I also use Polishing compounds above that if I want to take it farther toward a Mirror finish...

    You have to walk the buffing tight rope when doing this though, on a razor like this one it is rather easy because there was no deep rust or pitting so careful application of the wheels results in clean polished steel without burning up the razor..
    Now if you have a deeply pitted razor you have to decide how far to take it or even if you should...
    Myself if I am not going to get to clean shiny steel then I don't start... Left over pits are ok to me but they have to be clean...

    I also realize that some of you are comfortable with shaving razors that have left over patina and deep spider rust, I personally am not, and that is probably why I started restoring my own razors way back when..


    Now when I used to hand sand and polish that was a different system and honestly you have to choose the razors more carefully, here is a link to one of the worst looking ones I ever started..

    BTW she is still in my rotation

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...e-attempt.html

    Note: The comment in post #18 about doing all the work then testing the edge can you say DUH !!! After I actually wrote that I realized I should do it the other way around...
    Always test the edge before doing the work
    Last edited by gssixgun; 11-15-2010 at 05:07 PM.

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