Thread: Renaissance Wax as a Finish

I see alot of discussion about using Ren Wax on wood scales, but I was wondering about using it on other scale materials. I bought a small can for use on ivory scales, but I've since divested myself of that razor. In my (pitifully small) collection of STR8s I have scales that are plastic, celluloid, and micarta. Would these benefit from an application of Ren Wax, or am I just wasting my time, or worse, harming the razors.

Thanks
Peter

Honestly I have found only positive results from using Ren Wax on razors.. Even the steel

If you read above the only thing I don't advise is "Just" using Ren Wax as THE finish...

Most Hardwoods with oil content IMO need no finish if Highley polished.
My final finish on woods like african Black.CoCo,Ebonys.Lignum, is to sand to 600.
Burnish with felt using artist grade clear linseed oil and pumice,burnish again with felt, oil and rottenstone,than 4 coats of ren,works for me.

Heres another example using ren,This is CoCo,water buff horn,Fossil seacow bone and african ivory,the stuff works on everything.

I have been using Ren wax on wooden scales for years without a problem.

Wooden scales, BTW, have been used a lot over the years - there are plenty of vintage swedish razors in original ebony scales, older french and english razors in pressed wood scales (which are easily mistaken for pressed horn) and plenty of modern razors in wood scales. Don't be put off by people who disdain wood scales, they have a lot going for them, whether you like the artificial high gloss effect of CA, resins and varnishes or the more natural effect of waxes and oils.

The original instructions for using Ren Wax recommended three applications for the best degree of moisture resistance. I put the first coat on then buff the scales - the heat generated gets it into the wood - well, as far as it is going to go into the tropical, close-grained hardwoods that I use, which isn't far. Like pixelfixed says, this type of wood has a natural oil content, some so much so that it makes them unsuitable candidates for varnish and CA treatments. I then coat again to a total of four applications. Never, ever had a problem. The coating is done before the scales are pinned-up, so even the pin holes are taken care of and the wod where the spacer is going to sit. Thin friction washers at the pivot stop the tang wearing the internal coating away.

It is safe to use on ivory, gutta percha, mother-of-pearl, horn, bone, stone, marble, fibreglass, epoxy resin etc, etc, etc.

It is great for metal too and protects razor steel well. It stops patina developing on brass and copper and is used to protect bronze statues - exposed to the elements out of doors. It is specified as the final finish on lots of carpentry work. Couple with the right sort of timber and used with some thought and care, it is great stuff. Easily revived to a lovely soft glow by another application of wax, it doesn't need refinishing like scratched, shiny finishes do after some time.

It is used by museums, gunsmiths, military museums and armourers around the world. Can't all be wrong, can they?

Don't fear the Renwax...!

Regards,
Neil

Another great aspect about ren wax is its ability to be easily fixed, just add more wax and buff, on a CA finish or polyurethane you would probably more then likely have to remove the entire finish, bringing it back to bare wood and re-apply, and loosing the natural aging or patina of the wood.

Heres another example of a ren-wax finish only,no plastic needed. The pce on the left is hand sanded to 600 grit,Than I will polish with white compound on a cotton wheel.
Than hand rubbed with rottonstone and oil,than 4 coats of ren,Done
I like using the natural oils in the wood as a polish,This is cocobolo.