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Thread: Renaissance Wax as a Finish

  1. #1
    Cream Huffer
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    Default Renaissance Wax as a Finish

    I normally stick to micarta or G-10 for scale material, but I have a couple of hunks of wood laying around the shop that are starting to look like they need to be attached to a razor.

    I picked up a little tube of Ren Wax a little while ago and was thinking of using it for finishing the wood. Do I just apply a couple of light coats? I assume I rub the wax into the wood fairly vigorously, so that it heats up somewhat and has the best chance at getting good penetration into the wood. Do I need to buff it afterwards?

    Is that all there is too it?

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    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    I don't know about as a finish by itself but as a protective it is great stuff. I have a can of it with instructions but I can't find it. I'm sure if you google it you'll find instructions on their webpage.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

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    I have used Ren Wax frequently on wood scales and for me, it has worked fine. I just rub an ample amount into the scales, let them sit a while and then buff them. Obviously, not the same finish as with CA or a Tung Oil, but still pretty nice.

    Have fun,

    Lynn

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Wink

    Yup, it's not a durable finish such as a varnish, epoxy, or cyano-acrylate; it is only a wax so it does not impart the water resistance that may be needed on something which at some point will get wet. The wetting may not harm the wood, but if your blade is closed against damp wood, it will rust. The deteriorization of the waxed finish is not a guarantee, but it is much more likely to occur than with a waterproofing finish. The issue of water absorbancy is probably why the makers of the old razors did not use wood for scales: horn, bone, ivory, etc. were generally warp free and did not absorb water to the degree the blades were harmed.


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    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Hehehe I am going to reach back to an old discussion here

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/shavi...les-water.html

    There are some slight differences in our styles of shaving

    So for the "Dry Guys" that never get their razors wet, Ren-wax works fine

    But for us "Swishers" I want something a bit more waterproof and then Ren-wax over that
    Cangooner likes this.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gssixgun View Post
    Hehehe I am going to reach back to an old discussion here

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/shavi...les-water.html

    There are some slight differences in our styles of shaving

    So for the "Dry Guys" that never get their razors wet, Ren-wax works fine

    But for us "Swishers" I want something a bit more waterproof and then Ren-wax over that
    And for you "Swishers" beware of the blade staining monsters .........

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    dnjrboy (01-08-2011)

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    Ren Wax is great for protection and keeping finger prints at bay, but its not really a finish. Its a good thing to put over other finishes. I use it all the time on pens I make. Ren Wax does not last long on pens, but it sure protects when showing them on a table for sale or light use.

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    dnjrboy (01-12-2011)

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    aka shooter74743 ScottGoodman's Avatar
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    Something else to think about is the type of wood you are using. If it's a tight grained & oily wood like cocobolo or african ebony it works ok as mentioned above. If it's like red oak it probably won't work quite as well & you may consider a tongue oil...my two cents anyway.

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    Thank you and God Bless, Scott

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    Renaissance wax or Conservators wax are great for final display. It really keeps the fingerprints off.
    If you're using wax to finish your scales, I would suggest you use a rotary tool/polishing machine with a stitched wheel, muslin or cotton depending on the wood variety, grain and moisture content. I prefer using 100% bees wax, which come in different grades. Apply the wax to the rotating buff so it takes to the wheel. Using light pressure apply the wax to the scales; friction from the buff + scale will soften/melt the wax which will permeate the scale. I would do all sides. Using clean buffs, 1-stitched, 1- loose; polish the scale when the wax and scale is cool. Redo the procedure at least 3-5 times. *note use light pressure. Excessive friction will cause issues. ie. Catching the scale, warping, and giving it an overworked feel to the piece.
    If using wood for scales; Cocobolo, Ebony, Lignum Vitae or hardwoods would be my choice. Stabilized woods would be the best for high moisture uses.
    Love to see the end piece.

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    The Electrochemist PhatMan's Avatar
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    dnjrnoy,

    To be on the safe side, I would initailly apply a few light coats of tung oil (or Danish oil) to seal the wood.

    Renaissance Wax then can be applied over this finish.

    Have fun !

    Best regards

    Russ

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