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  1. #1
    Senior Member tombuesing's Avatar
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    Default Sources for Pins and Collars?

    I tried one of the scales/pin/collars sets from Classic and they worked out fine.

    However, I'd like to know if there are any other sources for pins and collars, besides Classic?

    Thanks,
    Tom

  2. #2
    Senior Member garythepenman's Avatar
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    Tom, I use 1/16" brass rod and microwashers size #0 from www.microfasteners.com

    If you want to double up on the pivot washer just get the next washer with larger outer diameter.

    The brass is stronger and hell of a lot cheaper. I took Bill's advice.

    Gary

  3. #3
    Senior Member tombuesing's Avatar
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    Default

    If you're interesting in trying Stainless Steel, I get it from www.muzzleloaderbuilderssupply.com item #24630.

    P.S. I built this website.

    Tom

  4. #4
    Senior Member garythepenman's Avatar
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    Tom, I think S.S. would be a bugger to peen over, the brass only needs the gentlest of taps, lots of taps, but gentle.

    Gary

  5. #5
    Senior Member ToxIk's Avatar
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    Default

    vlad was good enough to mint me some extra pins/washers when I ordered a cocobolo kit from him. They're brass, and tho I haven't pinned any yet, do look quite nice. They washers came niced and brightly polished.

  6. #6
    Senior Member tombuesing's Avatar
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    Default

    Precisely how do you guys use the brass rod?

    Do you cut it to length, put it into the scales and start flattening, alternating ends?

    Do you cut an oversize piece, flatten one end, place in the scale, cut to length and flatten the other end?

    If you flatten a piece before you put it in the scales, how do you hold the piece while you flatten it? In a vise? In a drilled hole in a piece of steel?

    If you would, please describe your process in detail.

    Thanks,
    Tom

  7. #7
    Senior Member vladsch's Avatar
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    Tom,

    The process is described in detail on Bill Ellis' CD. If you search this forum it has also been described in detail here too.

    I would love to describe it in detail again but doing so would take a few hours. It would be a lot less effort (especially for me ) if you were to search the existing restoration threads for the info. Not only would you get your answer but the reading of past threads would be very informative on other restoration matters.

  8. #8
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    Default

    Or if you are lazy...

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/showt...highlight=jigs

    BTW, the search funciton rejects the work "pin" for being too short. Other threads I have linked to my favorites are now not working. I can't find the original pin jig thread. The straight razor restoration category only goes back 3 pages or so. It's longer than that, isn't it??
    Last edited by shavethebadger; 07-06-2006 at 04:07 AM.

  9. #9
    Senior Member tombuesing's Avatar
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    Vlad,

    I reading through Bill' CD, it appears that he doesn't put a head on one end of the pin, but rather, peens out a head on both sides by switching from side to side. Am I correct?

    Tom

  10. #10
    Senior Member garythepenman's Avatar
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    Tom, yes you are correct.

    My method, briefly is to insert the 1/16" rod through the predrilled hole. It's a snug fit, the rod won't fall out.

    I then put a #0 size washer over both ends. I push the rod so as to leave approx 0.5mm>1mm on one side then snip of the protruding length from the other side still elaving it a little proud, only just. Basically all you need left sticking out is enough to form a rivet head on each side.

    I then very carefully put one side on the anvil part of my vice (careful the washer does not fall off on the underside) and start gently tapping with a small ballpeen hammer to create a rivet head. A few taps, turn over and do a few on the other side. The rod will sort of sell centre but you must make sure the scales are pressed firmly against the tang.

    Not rocket science at all really.

    Gary

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