Thread: Any fix for a broken tang?

Here is a picture:
(note: my definition for "look really close" may vary from yours...)

Many fabricating jewelers have gone to laser welders. The who does mine is a jeweler. PM me and I will send you his contact info. I am sure he would quote it out for you. I don't know what you call expensive. IT would probably cost you over $20 but I doubt it would cost anywhere near $100. I don't know what its worth to you to get it fixed but if interested I can put the two of you together.

I don't see where your located but he is in the Chicago area. Its easy enough to ship a razor blade though.

oh, I figured it'd go in the hundreds range :P Might be time to go find me a jewelers :P

Originally Posted by HNSB

Here is a picture:
(note: my definition for "look really close" may vary from yours...)

Nice!!! You can barely see it

Here's a thread on one of my razors with a repaired tang, it's very much like the repair suggestion with drawings several posts back. My repair seems to be very old and has not effected the temper

http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...nge-razor.html

Originally Posted by rodb

Here's a thread on one of my razors with a repaired tang, it's very much like the repair suggestion with drawings several posts back. My repair seems to be very old and has not effected the temper

http://straightrazorpalace.com/razor...nge-razor.html

I saw that one, looked like a great fix to me!
this is what my fix currently looks like:


tested it thoroughly and I'm quite confident that this will hold up to daily use as-is =)
I'll probably still see if I can weld it up eventually though.. dunk the blade in oil with the tang sticking out & tack it or something..

but for now - this is fine

Another option you could try before welding, would be to drill two small holes in the broken ends, and then insert a steel pin into both pieces. As a bonding agent you could try glass bedding material used for bedding gun barrels in a gun stock. Its pretty darn durable and holds up to recoil. As for welding, get it laser welded or find a good welder in your area, they'd probably have to tig weld it and use a big heat sink to suck the heat out of the blade.

You could always go to the weldingweb forum and ask them what they think, The vast majority of guys on there are professionals and they will be honest and tell you if its doable without wrecking it further. A guy with the user name Zapster can tig weld in his sleep and he would be the guy to ask.

More than likely the break would have to be beveled and the weld bead would have to be done in the beveled area to get the penetration without hitting it with too much heat. I'm not an expert, but I thought I'd give you a way to get a free opinion from someone who is.

A competent tig weld will suffice as beveled and filled in, however any fix will reveil itself. Once you do this, you will not do it again. Blades will be junked and mistakes not repeated! Junk it. JMHO

Originally Posted by twogun

Another option you could try before welding, would be to drill two small holes in the broken ends, and then insert a steel pin into both pieces.

I considered that, but the material was too hard to drill into, so all hope of correctly aligning it to drill the holes in the EXACT same coordinates on both pieces were pretty much nill in my case.

Originally Posted by twogun

As for welding, get it laser welded or find a good welder in your area, they'd probably have to tig weld it and use a big heat sink to suck the heat out of the blade.

it is possible to TIG weld it, but only if I speedtack the top & bottom, if I weld up the sides, i'll ruin the stamp completely.
I have to speedtack them while clamped down too to avoid it crimping & pulling the gap open again after the first tack.. it's a bit better than normal tacks in that regard, but it WILL still move :<


You could always go to the weldingweb forum and ask them what they think, The vast majority of guys on there are professionals and they will be honest and tell you if its doable without wrecking it further. A guy with the user name Zapster can tig weld in his sleep and he would be the guy to ask.

Originally Posted by twogun

More than likely the break would have to be beveled and the weld bead would have to be done in the beveled area to get the penetration without hitting it with too much heat. I'm not an expert, but I thought I'd give you a way to get a free opinion from someone who is.

it would indeed have to be beveled where I want to weld it (top & bottom of tang), reground, and then refiled..
as for the heat part, big copper blocks clamped to it, with the blade itself submerged in oil should be plenty to keep the temper in the important bits.


the biggest issue with welding is that, nomatter how good you do it, if you grind & polish it, it will ALWAYS show :/

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sidenote: sofar my plain loctite 435 is still holding perfectly well :P

A buddy of mine is a jeweler with over 30 years experience. His advice, get it laser welded if its something you really want to fix. Cost shouldn't be anymore than $50. You've just got to find someone willing to do it.