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Thread: Need a Buffing Machine Recommendation Please

  1. #21
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Take greater note of what Undream pointed out. A wheel with some compound on it helps in accumulating more on it. Try to apply some compound and when you get frustrated, walk away for a few minutes, leaving the buffer running. Alternatively, shut it off and come back the next day. The next attempt at loading will be better.

  2. #22
      Lynn's Avatar
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    To me the key to applying greaseless is to use very little pressure and let the wheel take up the compound. The alternative is to use the glue first. I have never used greaseless on a loose wheel.

    Have fun,

    Lynn

  3. #23
    Senior Member Joe Edson's Avatar
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    Loading fresh wheels can take some time to get the product to adhere. I use sewn wheels and the first loading may shoot some greaseless everywhere before it loads. After that initial loading it should coat just fine. Sisal to me was a PITA and I just gave up on using them. I think I have one wheel that I'll use 80 grit on as I spent the time to get that one loaded and it is a fast cutter, but overall I just found them too much of a hassle to deal with.

    Always wear goggles and a respirator and be careful. I've had a few blades thrown on me before and it can happen in the blink of an eye. Make sure to work in the safety zone on the wheels so if that happens the blade will fly backwards. Have fun and enjoy!

  4. #24
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    Thanks again everyone. Everyone on SRP is incredibly helpful! I ordered some sewn 4" wheels today. Once I've mangled a few razors, I'll report back. :-)

  5. #25
    Senior Member Str8Shooter's Avatar
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    Wouldn't a dremmel tool work well for this?

  6. #26
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Str8Shooter View Post
    Wouldn't a dremmel tool work well for this?
    On a small scale, yes. However, it can be more dangerous and more likely to overheat a blade.

  7. #27
    Senior Member Str8Shooter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Utopian View Post
    On a small scale, yes. However, it can be more dangerous and more likely to overheat a blade.
    How hot is too hot? I use it on firearms often.

  8. #28
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    If it feels hot to the touch, then that's too hot. The thinness of the steel means that it takes very little friction to overheat it.

    Edit: Actually, I should correct that. If it feels hot to the touch, then it's on its way to being too hot. Because that transition can occur so quickly, you should cool the blade when it feels hot so that you prevent it from becoming too hot, whatever that is.
    Last edited by Utopian; 05-18-2011 at 11:37 PM.

  9. #29
    Customized Birnando's Avatar
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    I use a Dremel for cleaning up and buffing my razors on occasion.
    I use a "burst" technique to avoid too much heat.
    That means short intervals of buffing, before the blade gets time to cool off.
    I never go above 60-70 degrees Celsius, about 150-170F.
    I know that is way within the limits of hurting the temper, but as they say, better safe than sorry
    Bjoernar
    Um, all of them, any of them that have been in front of me over all these years....


  10. #30
    Senior Member Str8Shooter's Avatar
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    You will have to excuse my newbie ignorance. I look at straight razors somewhat like my knives. They are metal that has been heat treated to achieve some level of rockwall hardness. I would think that as long as I keep it under 200ish F I should be ok. Is it something with the thin edge that lowers this? Again I'm used to talking about steel like S90V, S30V, 154CM, ZDP-189, 440C etc... Granted these are types of stainless steel. Not high-carbon.

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