Thread: Loose pin, or oversized hole?

there used to be a sticky with all the how to restoration links for threads and supply stores.
I do not know what happened to it.
You can use the search for restoration threads and get all the info from there, you will know what to get after your research.

Basic gear you will need is 4oz peen hammer, fluch cutters, center punch (1/16), flat file, 1/16 brass rod, washers and a metal block/ anvil to peen on.

Originally Posted by holli4pirating

I've never noticed any ill effects of an oversized hole when repinning, unless the whole is so big that the thrust washers (if used) fall into the hole. But I wouldn't consider myself an experienced rescaler by any means; I have not done that many razors.

Originally Posted by mainaman

By my experience you are correct, most of the time there is no problem at all. The only thing that happens when the pin hole is oversized is the tang will have room to move up and down. When there is need to sleeve the hole, one has to make sure it is straight, most of the time they are punched not very straight which can cause the blade to sit askew and hit the scales.

Also it depends on the actual rescale.. When many of us custom rescale now, we tend to do so with tighter tolerances then they used in the old days, and even now-a-days ie: TI and their 1/4 inch gap between razor and wedge... So that pin slop can become a problem depending on how tight you want the Custom Rescale to be... It takes less time to sleeve the pin, then it took to type this out, and costs about 1 penny to do,,, so to me it is a moot point, I just sleeve them if it fits....

I've owned two disembodied blade of basically the same Wade and Butcher razor of the 1830s, so identified because it was a short-lived predecessor of the true hollow grind. One had an elongated hole, allowing some longitudinal movement with any size of pin which would pass through it, while the other had a slightly smaller and true circular hole. I would guess that plenty of razors vary as much. There was enough metal in the tang to safely round off the elongated hole with a diamond burr, and use a turned silver pin 3/32"diameter at the ends, with a larger diameter between the scales. I think 1/16in. riveting is fine in brass or nickel silver, but silver is softer.

As an alternative, with most other metal objects I would advise tapping in a slightly tapered and slightly oval brass or copper rod as far as it would go. I'd cut it off slightly proud of the steel, hammer it to expand it, and file flush. I don't recommend this in the very hard and brittle steel of a razor, which could easily break. I'd tap it in veryt cautiously, epoxy it in place, and then drill for the pivot.

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Also it depends on the actual rescale.. When many of us custom rescale now, we tend to do so with tighter tolerances then they used in the old days, and even now-a-days ie: TI and their 1/4 inch gap between razor and wedge... So that pin slop can become a problem depending on how tight you want the Custom Rescale to be... It takes less time to sleeve the pin, then it took to type this out, and costs about 1 penny to do,,, so to me it is a moot point, I just sleeve them if it fits....

For me, it has nothing to do with tolerance. Unless I really pull on a blade, it won't move, even if the pin hole is oversized. Unless, as I stated above, the thrust washer falls into the hole. But if you need to do something to get your blades to center/not hit the wedge/not move, then using a sleeve seems like a good option.