Thread: Adventures with acetone

A couple words.

• Ventilation.
• noignition source.
• Fire extinguisher.

Works great for a lot of things.

So working with celluloid and acetone in a small room with the window closed by candle light would be a bad idea.

Just as well I normally work in sunlight on my back veranda.

Mind you I splash around caustic soda on a daily basis at work so you can't wreck something twice

Originally Posted by Pauly

Some things I have learned through trial and error in the last few days.

1) A No 2 or No 3 brush is the perfect applicator. Although a cheapie with synthetic bristles is plenty good enough, no need to buy a sable brush. You can get a pack of 5 or 6 brushes for $2 without any trouble.

2) Acetone will glue together a celluloid scale that has been snapped in half (this was the error part of 'trial and error'). Careful sanding and painting will make the join hardly noticeable, but not invisible. All you have to do is lightly paint each end with acetone and gently push the ends into place and then let them sit whilst supported for 15 minutes and you will have a solid join. Solid enough to re-pin a razor within 30 minutes of joining the two halves together if you are like me and have no patience.

3) Using a brush dipped in acetone to get underneath inlays as they start to lift is a very efficient way of removing metal inlays without damaging them.

4) You can glue inlays into new celluloid scales using acetone. Firstly you clean and shape the inlay for the new scales. Then liberally paint the back of the inlay with acetone. Quickly place the inlay into position on the new scales and lightly but firmly press the inlay against the scale. Use your fingernails or toothpicks to hold the inlay in position. After about 30 seconds the acetone will have melted the celluloid around the inlay and re-set. This leaves the inlay set into the side of the scales.
I would suggest that you use masking tape to mask off the area where you want to fit the inlay.
If you goof up you can use acetone to lift off the inlay, wait for the celluloid to dry out, sand the scar back with 1500+ sandpaper and try again. It's better not to goof up, but if you do it isn't the end of the world.

That will work very well with true celluloid, but other plastics are used in most recent razors. I believe ether will work the same way with at least some acrylic.

There are also specially made tubular drawing pens, for writing in a special plastic-etching ink on plastic film used in technical drawing. The solvent made for cleaning these will attack most plastics.

Has anybody ever tried methylene chloride?

Originally Posted by Pauly

4) You can glue inlays into new celluloid scales using acetone. Firstly you clean and shape the inlay for the new scales. Then liberally paint the back of the inlay with acetone. Quickly place the inlay into position on the new scales and lightly but firmly press the inlay against the scale. Use your fingernails or toothpicks to hold the inlay in position. After about 30 seconds the acetone will have melted the celluloid around the inlay and re-set. This leaves the inlay set into the side of the scales.
I would suggest that you use masking tape to mask off the area where you want to fit the inlay.
If you goof up you can use acetone to lift off the inlay, wait for the celluloid to dry out, sand the scar back with 1500+ sandpaper and try again. It's better not to goof up, but if you do it isn't the end of the world.

Some more things I have learned about using acetone to set inlays into celluloid.
- Be liberal when applying celluloid to the back of the inlay. It is impossible to put too much acetone on the back of an inlay, but it is very possible to put not enough on.
- Put a small (emphasis on small) drop of acetone on where you are about to place the inlay. Any overspill will have a negative cosmetic effect. Whilst it can be sanded out it is better to not have to sand at all.
- Be sure to be firm when pushing the inlay into the celluloid. If you are going to make a mistake it is better to push too hard than not hard enough.

Originally Posted by Pauly

Where does one get MEK?

Damn good question, took me a week to find over here.

Having read up a bit more on MEK, that is something I will personally leave alone.

If I was going to play with it I'd want a respirator and good eye protection.

I have full faith that SMG is right when he says that it will lead to a superior finish, it just is a product that you want to treat very seriously and you don't want to dabble with it.

Originally Posted by Pauly

Having read up a bit more on MEK, that is something I will personally leave alone.

If I was going to play with it I'd want a respirator and good eye protection.

I have full faith that SMG is right when he says that it will lead to a superior finish, it just is a product that you want to treat very seriously and you don't want to dabble with it.

Eh, Methyl ethyl ketone isn't any more dangerous than acetone, or isopropyl alcohol. It's probably less hazardous than mineral spirits if I had to guess; petroleum distillates are pretty nasty. MEK, acetone, and isopropyl alcohol are similar in flamability, and exposure hazard. Sure, don't huff it, but I wouldn't huff acetone either. Also, a respirator that is designed for solvents must be used if that's the route you want to take. It must be a respirator, not a dust mask. Either that or a contained breathing apparatus. But really, just don't work in a closet or small room and you'll be okay. Moral: don't be scared, just be careful: ventilation, eye protection, and optionally latex gloves.

Credentials: Masters in Chemistry from Illinois State University (2010), Volatile Organics GC/MS Analyst

I would stay away from the latex gloves... Nitrile as well. MEX will typically eat right through them. If you are going to wear gloves get some rubber ones or butyl perhaps. You will lose dexterity but better protection. Also all of these chemicals are bad for you, they are just all bad for you in different ways.. Typically unless you use them daily for extended periods of time you have less of a concern about absorption through your hands and more nervous system damage through inhalation. I would advise respiratory protection and ther is a big difference in the many filters available if you are unsure ask a qualified person, not just someone at home depot. I have worked around these chemicals for years as a painter and I personally know people who have lost many years of their life due to improper PPE. I don't want to scare anyone either, just respect the seriousness of the chemicals that you are working with. As for where to buy MEK.... Try non-acetone nail polish remover, a paint store, or a hardware store or ask your friendly neighborhood painter... MEK is almost a universal solvent for many types of solvent based coatings. Also put the lid back on tight or all of these chemicals evaporate rapidly. Also lacquer thinner is a pretty hot solvent, it might work as well.