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Thread: Adventures with acetone
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07-19-2011, 03:06 AM #21
+1 this. As to eating the latex gloves, don't know about that. Absorbing through them, definitely. I worked with methylene chloride for about a year, all day, 5 days a week. We rinsed all our glassware in methanol, then methylene chloride; even with super thick "solvent proof" gloves that cost an arm and a leg, the methylene chloride still gets through. Sure, MEK is probably sneaky stuff to work with, but methylene chloride is a nasty little monster. Even through those thick gloves, latex gloves, and kevlar cut resistant gloves, if they leaked AT ALL your hands would feel like they were on fire for a minute or two. Whew, I could talk chem and solvents all day long, if you want to play with a dangerous solvent try DMSO (dimethylsulfoxide); it slips into your skin, carrying any bacteria on your skin with it! Sorry for the long windedness, got off track.
TAKE HOME MESSAGE: 1. Safety glasses that WRAP OVER your eyes!!!! 2. ventilation, no need for a respirator if you're using proper ventilation 3. don't splash the stuff around. Pretty much it.
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07-19-2011, 04:28 AM #22
Yep, spent a lot of time in the last few weeks with paint thinner containing methylene chloride. Kept using progressively thicker gloves before I found a pair it wouldn't absorb through....
Lots of fun when I spilled some, then accidentally knelt in it to get my brush under a ledge...
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07-19-2011, 09:39 AM #23
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Thanked: 94I've studied toxicology as part of a Masters of Workplace Health and Safety, which I discontinued when I changed careers. Also I have 18 years experience in industrial personal injury insurance so I have seen plenty of examples of chemical poisoning.
After reading the MSDS and doing some research I would use a respirator when handling MEK (and yes I know that MSDSs are written by professional worrywarts). Then again I may be confusing the appropriate safety standards for handling industrial quantities of MEK and what is appropriate for a hobbyist.
I would counsel against using gloves whilst handling razors. you can easily protect against skin exposure by using the appropriate tools (eg paintbrush and toothpick).
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08-06-2011, 03:58 PM #24
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Thanked: 0OK so I am trying to repair a set of scales that broke near the pin in a unppining accident. I have MEK I bought from Lowe's after reading here that it should work better and stronger then Acetone and I have tried "painting" it on the scales where they broke and holding them together but nothing. The stuff evaporates almost as soon as I put it on and even when I hold the scales together and paint the breaks while holding them they still do not stick and do not even start to melt at all and I am not sure what I am doing wrong. The scales are black celluloid off a morley and son's and say clover brand on them so I would realy like to save them and yes I am making a brass backing for the scales as well since they broke near the pin. The picture below is the same type of scales on another morley that isnt broke for reference. My camera died so I dont have a way to take pics of the broken scales right now but it was a twin set to the one in the picture. Please HELP!
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08-08-2011, 02:59 AM #25
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Thanked: 94Hi,
Firstly I am not an expert on this field, just an enthusiastic beginner.
My first question:
Are you sure the scales are celluloid?
My experience has been that acetone reacts very quickly and vigorously with celluloid. You should be able to see the melt occurring with just the smallest drop of acetone.
They may be another early plastic like bakelite or even vulcanised rubber.
Second question:
How old are the scales?
I collect razors mainly from the 20s and 30s, which is when the process for making celluloid had stabilised. One of the earlier production methods may not used the same processes and thus make MEK/acetone inappropriate.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Pauly For This Useful Post:
WarmShave86 (08-08-2011)
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08-08-2011, 06:22 PM #26
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Thanked: 0I think they must be bakelite then cause the acetone and MEK both have no effect on the scales. Ill try some epoxy once I finish the brass baking for them. Thanks Again for the help.
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08-10-2011, 12:28 AM #27
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Thanked: 6