Thread: Barber's Notches?

I'm trying to figure out if there's an equation to figuring out if and when its possible to add a notch during a restore.
1- Will it destroy the blade if the notch is too deep?
2- How far does the bottom of the notch have to be away from the edge?
3- Also, are there any guidelines to changing the point, including the spine end?
Thanks

That is a good question and there will be as many thoughts as there are persons sharing in the forum.
As to my opinion, I will say that:
Grinding heat may destroy a blade
A double hollow flexible blade may be weakened enough to snap during use..
It would be a bad idea for some blade grinds.
It would be a bad idea for valuable blades

Making such a change for your own pleasure and not for immediate re-sale may be considered alright. And doing so in a razor which is totally rebuilt and remade with custom scales showing a lot of rework may be alright.

Making such a change to increase the immediate value of that razor may be considered fraud if that change affects the value of the razor on the open market. Counterfeiting is a no no. Read some of the tales in "Auction Talk"

If you want to keep the razor original, it is obviously not a good idea. However, I would not call it fraud, any more than putting 22" rims on a car is fraud.

Anyway, I have made notches in new blades (I mean blades I made myself) and in blades with broken points. Surprisingly, heat is not a problem if you use sharp drums, and don't linger in 1 spot. If the abrasive is sharp, the metal will be removed as it heats up.

Hollow Ground is also not a big issue. However, care should be take to grind perfectly perpendicular to the blade. Otherwise you risk breaking away the point neat the edge. And if you grind in the direction of the edge side, use very light pressure, otherwise you might break the point as well.

That said, I only do it if the point is damaged and needs fixing, or on blades that I made myself.

Thanks for the info. I am thinking about trying it on one of my medium priced keepers. I like the flashy things in life

For clarification: I meant that the axis of the rotating drum should be perfectly perpendicular to the blade. The grinding action should be aligned with the part of the blade that you are grinding.
Does that explanation make sense?

Bringing this back to life here...
Do you mean that if i have a standard set up grinder (bench grinder, horizontal shaft) that I should be grinding with the blade pointing downwards to the bench, and the spine on top? I'm guessing that this is right, because it would be digging in at the thicker edge, and also should it bite, then it whould fire the blade at the bench.

I've got a couple of cheap "rehabs" that I'm considering modding.

thanks!

Iain

Never, EVER, point the edge of anything toward the spinning wheel, be it what it may. Always go with the edge downstream!

pls do not put a notch in a blade that never had a notch,esp. an old classic blade.
do a gold dollor blade, or one of the other junk blades.

G'Day Dan,

Great to see you back........

Sadly, Dan is not back. Zombie thread.