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Thread: Shiny-ing up old bone
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10-10-2011, 04:34 PM #1
Shiny-ing up old bone
I am working on a razor with old bone scales.
The bone is really dirty on the inside and I'll need to sand it.
The outside has that shine of old bone.
If I sand the inside, can I finish it in a way that would make it look like the outside? I would like to have that shine on the inside as well because a) the inside is visible, and b) with would make it hard for dirty to get hold.Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day
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10-10-2011, 05:44 PM #2
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Thanked: 993Bruno,
I just finished a vintage Boker with bone scales. After I unpinned, I sanded and then soaked the scales in a ziplock back of Neetsfoot oil for two days. I pulled them out, gently wiped them off and let them air dry for a day. Then I took them to the loose cotton buffing wheel and they took a really nice polish....sort of a satin-sheen.
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1971Wedge (10-14-2011)
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10-10-2011, 06:01 PM #3
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10-10-2011, 06:03 PM #4
Thanks. Could you perhaps post a pic so that I can see what you mean?
And then I only need to figure out what that stuff is called here in Belgium.Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day
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10-10-2011, 09:16 PM #5
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Thanked: 993Here's a thread to the finished product, but the shine isn't there. It was impossible to capture with the camera. http://straightrazorpalace.com/custo...oker-bone.html
Head to a shoe repair shop, and they'll have NeetsFoot oil on the shelf....or they should have.
Next, just like marinating a steak, take the old scales and drop them into a small ziplock freezer bag. Pour the neetsfood over top, until the scales are covered. Remove as much air from the bag as you can and then seal it. Let it sit for two days.
Take the scales out, and wipe gently with tissue paper to remove excess oil. Place them on a drying rack, just as you would if you'd finished a coat of tung oil or wax. Allow to dry for a day. Then they're good to buff.
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lz6 (10-10-2011)
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10-11-2011, 01:56 AM #6
Bruno, all the different bone I have worked with respond fantastic to micro mesh. I run em up the progression then neetsfoot oil soak for a few hours. I finish with MAAS then Ren wax. Here are a few pics.
"We sleep soundly in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm."
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Bruno (10-11-2011)
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10-11-2011, 07:27 AM #7Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day
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10-11-2011, 08:50 PM #8
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10-11-2011, 10:00 PM #9
Oh and I also do the same with horn!!!
Paul"We sleep soundly in our beds because rough men stand ready in the night to visit violence on those who would do us harm."
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10-12-2011, 03:16 AM #10
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Thanked: 124Yeah, I've progress sanded up to 2000 then followed with micromesh to get a really nice shine on bone or horn. If you dont have micromesh you can prolly use an aggressive polish on it and have it turn out pretty well. I've done this when I was feeling lazy with other scale materials. CrO mixed in with some of your regular polish should work for this, after the sanding. I'm not sure if it would be completely glassy but is should be close. Of course 2000 is the highest sandpaper I can get here, I think 2500 or higher then polish and youd definitely end up pretty nice.