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09-30-2012, 06:34 PM #31
- Join Date
- Mar 2012
- Location
- Baden, Ontario
- Posts
- 5,475
Thanked: 2284looks awesome. very classic look which I like! enjoy it!
Burls, Girls, and all things that Swirl....
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09-30-2012, 11:55 PM #32
Thanks for the positive comments everyone
Got a honing issue but I will take to the honing forums
Next restore should be a quicker one to do
Its a 6/8 Frederick Reynolds in bone scales I picked up from one of our Aussie members
I will make a new thread for that one
Thanks again for the support and encouragement
Rick
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10-01-2012, 12:04 AM #33
Hey Ricky, nice work mate. Good to see her all put together at last. It is always nice to finish one off.
I think we are having a Get-together later this month, why don't you bring it along and get some of the blokes to have a look at the honing for you?
Looking forward to seeing your next one
Stu
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10-01-2012, 01:41 AM #34
Nice job Rick - I look forward to seeing it in person, so to speak
Hang on and enjoy the ride...
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10-02-2012, 08:33 PM #35
RickyB --
That's a really great restoration. Very clean and looks like an excellent first go. I'll hopefully be posting up some restoration pics soon as well.
Did you have any issues with your first repinning? This is the part that makes me a little nervous, although there seem to be a number of useful videos and how-tos.
Per Rubicon's inquiry, I do all of my wet sanding with Tri-Flow lubricant, largely because I'm a bicycle mechanic and have it laying around, but also because it doesn't get tacky when it dries, like WD-40 does. The benefit of using a lube like this or WD-40 (I'm not sure about the Windex, I'll have to try it) is two-fold. The simple lubrication makes the sanding/cutting process much smoother. Like using a cutting fluid when tapping/chasing. It acts as a flushing agent and extends sandpaper life. By suspending particles in the lube you're not A) jamming up your paper or, B) rubbing the already removed metal back over the blade/paper as often.
The second component of a lubricant over water is... water displacement. By using Tri-Flow or WD-40, any number of other things, you're displacing water and fighting humidity, building in a rust inhibitor if you will. If I wet sand through, say 600-grit, with a lubricant, I can just drop the project for a week with absolutely no maintenance work on the blade. The lube keeps all the water off.
Update: Geezer hit me with a PM that was definitely relevant, so I thought I should edit, per his advice. The aforementioned is not a solution for long term storage. I find that wet sanding with a lubricant does buy me a week or so if I should drop the project temporarily, but is by no means a true rust inhibitor or blade protector for any sort of real long-term storage. Thanks for the correction Geezer!Last edited by falingore; 10-02-2012 at 10:32 PM. Reason: Additional Point
Do to budget cuts the light at the end of the tunnel has been turned off; we apologize for any inconvenience.
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10-06-2012, 12:00 PM #36
@ falingore
Thanks for your kind words
In regard to repinning I had a few tries before I got a satisfactory result
I found a trial fit with a micro fasteners adjustable screw and nut made life a bit easier
Several tries later I thought I had it about right and broke a scale putting it together on my first pinning attempt
Put it all down as a learning experience
Watching the tutorial videos really helps too
Some of the notable contributors on the subject are gssixgun and Lynn Abrams
The Windex does a similar job to WD 40, provides a bit of lubricant to the sanding paper and helps stop clogging up
Best of luck with your future restore