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  1. #11
    Hones & Honing randydance062449's Avatar
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    You might try several coats of Tru-oil to protect the exposed brass.

    Just a thought,
    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin

  2. #12
    Knife & Razor Maker Joe Chandler's Avatar
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    You don't need the paraffin oil with the rottenstone. A damp rag with rottenstone on works just fine. According to the directions on my container of rottenstone, it's supposed to be used with water instead of oil. The paraffin oil is for use with pumice and other slightly coarser abrasives. I'm not sure it would hurt, but the directions with the rottenstone recommend water, and having used it, it works just fine. Plus, it's a lot neater. Also, the best way to prevent air bubbles in your epoxy between the liners and scales is to slide them into place, rather than placing straight down and clamping.
    Last edited by Joe Chandler; 11-11-2006 at 04:39 PM.

  3. #13
    Loudmouth FiReSTaRT's Avatar
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    Great ideas gentlemen, but you've raised another interesting possibility. How about doing the first couple of coats with CA and then finishing it all with Truoil?
    1) Will it actually catch hold on a CA surface?
    2) Will that sort of a surface be less likely to be damaged by the razor's opening/closing action?

  4. #14
    Plays with Fire C utz's Avatar
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    I found the Truoil on the woodcraft web site and now know what I am looking for. I'll see if they have any tomorrow. Quick question though...I know this has been answered but forget what it was....will the Truoil stain the wood darker, or is it more of a clear coat.

    Also, Firestart, I'm thinking the rottenstone added to the outside of CA might help preserve it! Such as protect the CA from UV damage (you know, when you are shaving at the beach on those hot summer days ), or from oxidation break down...

    I'm using plastic liner to cover the brass liner to protect it for the same reasons you asked about covering the brass liner with CA or something. At one hobby shope they had a clear plastic liner that I thought, "why would you use that". Now I am kicking myself for not picking it up. It would be great over the brass! I'll have to go back and pick some of that stuff up.

    Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress!!!

    C utz

  5. #15
    Loudmouth FiReSTaRT's Avatar
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    Great idea Chris! I'll have to get some clear plastic that resists friction. Would laminating sheets do the trick?

  6. #16
    Plays with Fire C utz's Avatar
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    I'm not quite sure about the laminating sheets. I gues you could probably 'heat' them into shape?

    However, to avoid too much friction, just sand down by hand! Being plastic, and it should not bee too thick (~1/8" max) the job should not take too long. Go a high as you can in grit....

    And do you have any of that plastic polish that was mentioned in the other post?
    "Polishing Synthetic scales" and the web site: http://www.meguiars.com/

    C utz

  7. #17
    Loudmouth FiReSTaRT's Avatar
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    Chris, I was thinking of using a thin piece of clear plastic to protect the exposed side of the brass liner. The friction I was referring to is from the opening/closing action (I'm not sure how the washers will act i.e. whether they also rotate or not).

  8. #18
    Plays with Fire C utz's Avatar
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    I thought you were refering to friction of a dremel by sanding down.....

  9. #19
    Loudmouth FiReSTaRT's Avatar
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    I only use the Dremel to rough-shape the wood, alternating with sand-paper. For the liners, I'll have to hand-sand them to fit the scales just in case.

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