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Thread: Drill bit for scales

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    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    I would suggest if you are drilling pin holes in bone, ivory, bakelite, or other hard, brittle materials to use one of these by hand and go slow. You can feel your progress and back up as needed. A fast spinning drill can crack scales if a snag is hit, particularly as the bit goes through the bottom. While a slow process, it also gives a way to correct angle as you drill.
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    Senior Member karlej's Avatar
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    Sometimes having an oversize hole can allow you to move things around a bit while pinning if the blade will not center properly. I have some tapered pin reamers that work great for this. Look further down in this forum. Gsixxgun wrote a great little article on it.
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    Incidere in dimidium Cangooner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    I would suggest if you are drilling pin holes in bone, ivory, bakelite, or other hard, brittle materials to use one of these by hand and go slow. You can feel your progress and back up as needed. A fast spinning drill can crack scales if a snag is hit, particularly as the bit goes through the bottom. While a slow process, it also gives a way to correct angle as you drill.
    If you are using a higher-speed drill or drill press (and even if you are going slow) it is always a good idea to put some scrap wood under the thing you are drilling. This can greatly help reduce tear-out as the bit passes through the bottom. If you are drilling into air, there will be a tendency for the material to crack or split as the bit pushes through the last little bit.
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    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Great thread! Good ideas from all. It shows there is more than one way to relieve a cat from it's skin!
    I have taken to drilling thru until I can feel that "snag" at the end with my little tip drill. I then flip the scale over and go at the other side, gently! It chips thru easily by backing up a half turn and trying again.

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    ..mama I know we broke the rules... Maxi's Avatar
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    I prefer an HSS (Hardened Stainless Steel), lipped Brad point, 5/64" drill bit. Eliminates any skating and tear out on the top or bottom of the hole.

    Lee Valley Tools. They're about 4 bucks a piece.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Brad points are nice,but if you can drill a .062 hole in a precision manner,is no reason to go oversize.
    A .062 pin in a sloppy hole is not a precise fit. But if you need the wiggle room,do it.

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    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pixelfixed View Post
    Brad points are nice,but if you can drill a .062 hole in a precision manner,is no reason to go oversize.
    A .062 pin in a sloppy hole is not a precise fit. But if you need the wiggle room,do it.
    Making the holes a tad oversize also gives you the option the readjust the scales if the blade is not centered precisely. For example this could happen if the hole is not perfectly perpendicular to the tang. If you have a 1/16 hole and a 1/16 rod, then you're stuck.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bruno View Post
    Making the holes a tad oversize also gives you the option the readjust the scales if the blade is not centered precisely. For example this could happen if the hole is not perfectly perpendicular to the tang. If you have a 1/16 hole and a 1/16 rod, then you're stuck.
    Your absolutly right,thats why I always have a bit in a pinvice handy when final fitting,sort of use it as a reamer if need be.

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    Senior Member Tylerbrycen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sharptonn View Post
    I would suggest if you are drilling pin holes in bone, ivory, bakelite, or other hard, brittle materials to use one of these by hand and go slow. You can feel your progress and back up as needed. A fast spinning drill can crack scales if a snag is hit, particularly as the bit goes through the bottom. While a slow process, it also gives a way to correct angle as you drill.
    What are those called

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    Razor Vulture sharptonn's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tylerbrycen View Post
    What are those called
    It is called a "tip drill". A staple at welding supply's. They usually come with smaller, tiny bits for clearing cutting/welding torch tips. Handy for pilot holes and other uses. You can separately get a 1/16 and a 5/64 bits for it as well . Mine can take a 5/64 bit but not much bigger. Storage for bits is in the end. I use worn bits from unpinning for it. Cobalt split tip bits from Bass Tool. Super cheap in the short length. I doubt one could ever wear out one on scales. Even after drilling out fifty brass/silver pins.

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