Thread: Celluloid Cleaning

While looking for information concerning the safe cleaning of celluloid I happed upon this webpage.


JAIC 1991, Volume 30, Number 2, Article 3 (pp. 145 to 162)


Lots of interesting things to say about preserving celluloid objects.

Water of all things isn't good for celluloid apparently.

Dry your razors gentlemen.

Further it is my understanding alkali will deteriorate celluloid quickly. Soap can be alkali.

little is known on how to properly clean a material that was manufactured for 104 years? lol nice...

Originally Posted by alb1981

little is known on how to properly clean a material that was manufactured for 104 years? lol nice...

Well I was researching a means to cleaning the gunk at the pivot without depinning. I thought about the phosphoric acid based solutions including cola. Celluloid can become explosive under certain conditions and when exposed to acids and other strong solvents so it seemed prudent to do a little research.

I didn't expect to find out water and soap can be bad for celluloid.

Ya Celluloid is gnarly stuff for sure. It just struck me as funny that in the article they actually stated little is known about how to properly clean the stuff!

scrap the scales put organics on!! have never seen horn wood or bone explode like the hindenburg...just sayin

I have just one word of advice . . . . Scrubbing Bubbles. Oops - that was two words.

Regards - Walt

I too will be "cleaning" a razor that has some celluloid scales, which is how I came across this thread. Im in the same boat, looking to clean them up without de pinning. It seems as if they are in good condition externally, the insides are a little dirty and the pivot on the tang is a little grimy....

Well I just took the plunge and stuck a razor pivot end first into a bowl of a"limeaway" type product (phosphoric acid). I let it sit for a minute or two and then rinsed. I repeated this a couple time then let it soak about 4 minutes and rinsed with very hot water shot it with WD40 to displace the water then some mineral oil. None the worse for wear so far. Maybe tonight there will be an explosion in the desk with resulting fire or maybe over the next month the razor will just dissolve and fade completely away but for now the visible rust is gone and i didn't blacken the blade or dissolve the scales. YMMV

I've been doing this a good time and some mild soap like green soap and luke-warm water is best. I find hot water will take the finish right off. I've also used Cape Cod Cloths. You rub LIGHTLY and it puts the finish right back and shines them up.

Originally Posted by Walt

I have just one word of advice . . . . Scrubbing Bubbles. Oops - that was two words.

Regards - Walt

What type/form of the scrubbing bubbles?....their are so many now.

Originally Posted by WishinItWas

What type/form of the scrubbing bubbles?....their are so many now.

I use the Scrubbing Bubbles bathroom cleaner in the green can with a yellow cap. It's also an antibacterial that is supposed to wipe out 99.9% of those germs most new guys worry about on their vintage blades. Shake vigorously, apply liberally and wait for the bubbles to dissipate. I do this on a paper plate because the bubbles turn to liquid when they are finished working. When the bubbles have gone use paper towels and Q-tips to clean between the scales. Dry completely and add a drop of lubricant (Camillia oil, etc) to the pivot point. I then use a small amount of metal polish on a cloth (I use Wenol) and polish the outsides of the scales briskly and then wipe again with a soft, clean cloth to bring up the shine. I have done many celluloid scales (as well as horn and bone) and haven't had a single one explode . . . yet!

Regards - Walt