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Thread: Greaseless compounds

  1. #11
    Senior Member Tylerbrycen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HNSB View Post
    With a 6" wheel your sfpm is a little high, but you should still be able to load compound.
    I use 4" wheels with my buffer at 3500, and I'm pretty sure Glen and most others with fast turning buffers do the same.
    I find it hard to load the wheels I must be doing something wrong

  2. #12
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    You need to type

    "Loading Buffing Wheels" into the search in the top right hand corner of yer screen there are probably at least 20 threads about how it is done, Joed has a really good one in that search block

    Tyler I have told you about the sticky at the top of this Forum myself at least 5 times and even linked it to you everytime

    http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...wers-here.html


    Every single question you have ever asked is in that thread as is this one

    How do I load buffing wheels ????

    There are 3 thread links under Cleaning & Polishing about the exact thing you are asking, using the exact buffers you are using and the exact compounds you are using


    Using Greaseless Compounds:

    Walking a razor though the buffing wheels:

    Guide to Polishing Compounds:

    If you take the time to read them first, you would not have melted an entire tube of compound, Max even has some tips in those threads about dealing with the heat of Vegas...

    To give you an idea I use the HF buffers, w/ 4 inch sewn wheels, I just recently switched out my first tube of 80 grit about 2 months ago and I use two wheels at 80 grit all the time so over 2 years to use up a tube...


    I hope that answers all the questions you asked here and in the PM you sent me
    Last edited by gssixgun; 07-07-2012 at 04:09 AM.
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  4. #13
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    It may help if you spin the wheel up, turn the buffer off and press the compound bar against it as it slows down.

    Regards,
    Neil
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  5. #14
    epd
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    I was under the impression that buffers were strictly slow and variable speed grinders.... It seems that a lot of guys are running 3000+rpm bench grinders with extended mandrels?
    I realize that using smaller wheels reduces the sf but even a 4" wheel is still going 3000 rpm, I gather this is ok?....
    I suppose there is no need to keep an eye out for a buffer on sale when I can use a bench grinder. It would be a lot better than my drill press setup....

  6. #15
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    FWIW, I only use an 1800 rpm buffer with 4 inch wheels when I use the greaseless compounds. I find that the wheels take the compound easier than the 3600 rpm machines. You just want a thin and even coating of the compound, but not clumpy when dried. You still have to be really careful regarding the heat when using the 1800 rpm machines, but the 3600 will burn a full hollow ground in an instant if you're not careful.

    Have fun.

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  8. #16
    The Shell Whisperer Maximilian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Neil Miller View Post
    It may help if you spin the wheel up, turn the buffer off and press the compound bar against it as it slows down.
    This is exactly what you need to do if you don't have a slow speed buffer but I do it the other way around because it has more torque. The way Neil says works too. Tried it out and see what works best for you. Turn the switch on and off and use the slow take off speed of your buffer to throw that greaseless compound against the wheel. Do it several times until your wheel is loaded.
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  9. #17
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by epd View Post
    I was under the impression that buffers were strictly slow and variable speed grinders.... It seems that a lot of guys are running 3000+rpm bench grinders with extended mandrels?
    I realize that using smaller wheels reduces the sf but even a 4" wheel is still going 3000 rpm, I gather this is ok?....
    I suppose there is no need to keep an eye out for a buffer on sale when I can use a bench grinder. It would be a lot better than my drill press setup....
    The difference the is working clearance, a buffer has way more,,

    As to OK, it is all in the heat build up, once you learn how to hold the razor and move the razor then it is not an issue but as Lynn just pointed out, you can smoke an edge PDQ if you are not careful..
    Last edited by gssixgun; 07-07-2012 at 03:58 PM.

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  11. #18
    Senior Member Tylerbrycen's Avatar
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    Well after a long night of reading I need to invest in a rake or just make my own. And also I am going to try the on and off method and I'll probly need to look into a buffer with a variable selector switch

  12. #19
    At this point in time... gssixgun's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tylerbrycen View Post
    Well after a long night of reading I need to invest in a rake or just make my own. And also I am going to try the on and off method and I'll probly need to look into a buffer with a variable selector switch

    Ok after all that reading, those were the facts as you saw them ????

    Now just for you to ponder

    1. I have NEVER used a Rake on my greasless wheels, I simply refresh the coating..

    2. I don't use a Varible speed Buffer I use the HF buffers, I do have two 1750 rpm wheels that I use for final polish on scales

    3. I have never needed to flip a switch on and off to load the HF buffers, I simply figured out how to do it

    4. The compound is dry enough to use when it throws sparks, that time will vary a little

    5. If you melted a whole stick of compound something is really off..

    6. What type of wheels are you trying to load???

  13. #20
    Senior Member Tylerbrycen's Avatar
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    I use 6 inch ss wheels and I'm probly going to get 4 inch instead. And the reason y I said I should invest I a rake is because there have been pleanty of people on the forum saying they used the rake and after awhile they got te load they wanted. And one thing I figured out was its to hot during the day in arkansas. And doing the work in a garage it probly takes a toll on the compound

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