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Thread: Strop refinishing.

  1. #11
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    So up to 2k on the stropping side, what about the side i want to apply paste to??

  2. #12
    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by brooksie967 View Post
    So up to 2k on the stropping side, what about the side i want to apply paste to??
    try 600 if it does not work well, go up and reapply the paste.
    Stefan

  3. #13
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Different leathers require different techniques so it's impossible to say, I'm afraid - you will just have to try.

    Assess the leather first - skin side and flesh (rough) side. If you start with a very coarse grit (don't use ordinary sandpaper - it sheds a lot of particles, use something like used garnet paper or used wet-and-dry paper) you will remove the smooth skin layer completely. That's OK if you want a 'napped' surface, but not OK if the flesh side is fibrous enough to make it roll-up into little 'nubs' as you use it. If the wrinkles/scratches on the finish side aren't impacting on stropping I wouldn't sand it - if it isn't broken, don't fix it! Just condition it instead. First port of call would be saddle soap worked well in with a wet cloth and perhaps 'rolled' with a marble rolling pin or very stout seamless bottle to get it a bit more even, then wipe away the residue of the surface and buff it with a slightly damp cloth. Saddle soap contains both oils and glycerine, so this is as good as applying a light oiling to the strop, and much more manageable - let it thoroughly dry, perhaps under weights, before using or you will skew your assessment of the draw.

    If you are thinking of oiling the strop to increase the draw (ie, add more drag or resistance) then sit back and carefully consider this fact - it is easy to over-oil, but very difficult and sometimes impossible to remedy over oiling.

    If the finish side does need sanding, I would start with a high grit, perhaps 800 or so, to see what the effect is, then go down if it needs (and can take) more sanding, then work your way back up again.

    If you are pasting the 'sharpen' side then all it needs is to be flat - a fine nap helps hold the chrome oxide, for instance.

    Regards,
    Neil
    Last edited by Neil Miller; 09-07-2012 at 05:06 PM.

  4. The Following 6 Users Say Thank You to Neil Miller For This Useful Post:

    brooksie967 (09-07-2012), Geezer (09-14-2012), mapleleafalumnus (09-12-2012), nicknbleeding (09-10-2012), randydance062449 (09-12-2012), skipnord (09-07-2012)

  5. #14
    Hones & Honing randydance062449's Avatar
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    I agree with the approach that Neil Miller suggests. Use the least aggressive method first. It is easier to recover from!
    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin

  6. The Following User Says Thank You to randydance062449 For This Useful Post:

    Geezer (09-14-2012)

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