Results 11 to 20 of 20
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10-25-2012, 08:32 PM #11
Yeah, pretty much what you'll have to do. B/c if you want to keep the square but want the blade flat the only way to do that is to level the existing steel past the point of the missing part to blend it together to make one edge. Basically the backside of the chip is your new pre-bevel placement. It sucks, but I don't know of any other way around it. You could PM Glen or Lynn with pics and ask their opinion; won't hurt my feelings bro, they may know of a way I don't yet.
Mastering implies there is nothing more for you to learn of something... I prefer proficient enough to not totally screw it up.
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10-25-2012, 08:35 PM #12
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- Greenwood, Nova Scotia
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Thanked: 116Oh no worries Tiddle, your advice is very much appreciated! I just don't want to lose that much good steel. The rest of the steel is immaculate and in shave ready condition. I really think rounding that one small point is the best way to go.
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10-25-2012, 08:37 PM #13
Pretty much all you can do is what catrent suggested to save steel or what i suggested to save the square tip; depends on how dead set and how bad you want that square. It's your razor and money, so just give it some thought.
Mastering implies there is nothing more for you to learn of something... I prefer proficient enough to not totally screw it up.
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10-25-2012, 08:37 PM #14
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- Rhode Island
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Thanked: 32
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10-25-2012, 08:38 PM #15
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- Mar 2012
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- Thunder Bay, Ontario, Canada
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Thanked: 3228Life is a terminal illness in the end
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The Following User Says Thank You to BobH For This Useful Post:
brooksie967 (10-25-2012)
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10-25-2012, 08:38 PM #16
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- Aug 2012
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- Greenwood, Nova Scotia
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Thanked: 116I'm not too worried about having it square for now. My Boker King Cutter is a factory muted point and I love the shave from it. As much as I do enjoy that aggressive square point for doing my sideburns etc I'd prefer to keep as much steel! Thanks everyone and i'll let you know how it goes.
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10-25-2012, 08:39 PM #17
We are merely here to help. I definitely wouldn't tell you do it my way or it's wrong, or you are ruining that blade..unless you were really doing something..errr out there. lol
Mastering implies there is nothing more for you to learn of something... I prefer proficient enough to not totally screw it up.
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10-25-2012, 08:55 PM #18
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10-25-2012, 09:40 PM #19
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10-25-2012, 10:29 PM #20
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- Aug 2012
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- Greenwood, Nova Scotia
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Thanked: 116Took me all of 5 minutes on the side of a hone to give the softest little round corner to the blade. Polished it up and all the distressed metal was returned to it's original glory. Put the bad boy on my buddies coticule with a thick muddy slurry and worked a progression of dilutions then finished it on my purple then black WHIGs. I don't have my own bevel setter yet so I was forced to do this.
This is by far the thinnest ground blade I have; I can see the metal flexing and popping back to it's original shape with the slightest of touches. The blade is so true and perfect and was a cinch to hone. It's taken an incredible edge and has the thinnest bevel of any of my 20+ razors.
I stropped the blade on my nylon webbing, then on a strop treated with cerium oxide, cleaned it with rubbing alcohol and finished it with 50 laps on an untreated leather strop.
Can't wait to shave with this bad boy!!!
The only other issue is that the spacer seems to be off and I think was the cause of the damage to the blade. I can't tell if it's been re-pinned or if the originals are in it. It's got a 3 pin configuration and because of the funny spacer issue, I plan on taking a very thin metal file to smooth the spacer and reduce it's size to avoid any more blade contact.
Thanks to everyone for their quick and useful tips! Every question I've had on this forum has been answered to the full extent and I've never been in a situation where I'm unsure of the steps to take to rectify an issue.
Watch out for my SOTD pics with this bad boy, it's going to be coming soon!