Results 11 to 16 of 16
Thread: Sandpaper
-
10-06-2010, 05:17 PM #11
-
10-06-2010, 05:26 PM #12
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- Rochester, MN
- Posts
- 11,552
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 3795Yes. Realistically any lightweight oil should be fine. I use 3 in 1 simply because it is the cheapest option. It also has the advantage of being available in a wide variety of stores. Even most grocery stores have it.
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Utopian For This Useful Post:
aeon (10-06-2010)
-
10-06-2010, 05:33 PM #13
I'll have to look into that! Thanks.
The oils job is basically clearing away the swarf and lubrication (the jobs of any oil involved in a cutting process), but do you think that there would be any negative effects of not using any kind of oil or water? Too much micro-scratching?
-
10-06-2010, 05:37 PM #14
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Location
- Rochester, MN
- Posts
- 11,552
- Blog Entries
- 1
Thanked: 3795
-
The Following User Says Thank You to Utopian For This Useful Post:
aeon (10-06-2010)
-
10-06-2010, 05:39 PM #15
I figured as much, but just wanted to be sure.
-
10-07-2010, 01:04 AM #16
- Join Date
- Aug 2010
- Location
- Vancouver, BC, Canada
- Posts
- 1,377
Thanked: 275I've used 5 micron microabrasive sheet (Mylar backing, not paper). It's great for a next step after 2000-grit SiCarbide sandpaper.
You need something _flat_ to put it on if you're grinding edges with it -- glass, or an acylic sheet. That's true for all sandpaper.
And thanks for the lead to finer grits.
Charles