Thread: NOXON vs MAAS???

Hey guys,
I am trying to clean up a razor. It has what look like water marks on it, maybe tarnish, but nothing serious like pitting. I had some high grade sandpaper from another project lying around (1000, 1500, and 2000). I used this to remove the mark, now i've got tiny scratches that I wanted to polish out. I started with polishing by hand, but that proved imposssible to notice a difference, so I went to a buffing pad on my dremel. Even that doesn't seem to take the fine lines out.

I'm using NOXON, though I tried Braso (which was under the sink used for the dishes), and neither seem to help very much. I see that everyone suggests MAAS, or even Flitz or Simichrome; however, I can pick up MAAS at walmart without having to order online.

Is Maas much better than Noxon or Braso? I hate to keep buying redundant products, and it seems like metal polish would be metal polish... no?

What you want to have is a metal polish in a paste form. If your current polish is a liquid, then you need a paste, if it's a paste, then don't worry about it, BUT... Go back to 1000 and go gently over the area. Get the 1000 wet and do some more gentle buffing. Do the same with 1500 and 2000 (first dry then wet, always with no pressure). That will save you quite a bit of polishing time.

Thanks. Yes, Noxon and Brasso are liquids. So I need a paste... I suppose it will polish better?

Why go back to the 1000, 1500, 2000? How will that save me polishing time? I'm at the last step, ready to polish, and you're saying I should go back to sanding??
Why?

What I did was cut out a small slivere (about half a postage stamp) and rub it with the eraser of a pencil to get out the water mark. I'm not putting pressure on for fear of snapping the blade (its a half hollow), but it did require *SOME* small pressure.

Liquids are usually just for corrosion removal. Pastes should contain a mild abrasive. You know how buffing required SOME pressure. This time, when you use sand paper, do it with almost no pressure. A kind of a pyramid approach to polishing that worked great for my blades.

Fredvs79,

You could have removed those water stains with a paste cleaner like Maas, however, you used a gritted paper, which scored the metal (but that's water under the bridge now). Those small scratches, need to be made smaller, and smaller, etc (i.e. polished out). 'Cleaners' will not do this. If anything you might be able to 'mask' the small scratches by cleaning the area with Maas, however, if the light hits the area right, you will still see the scratches.

You want to reduce the refractive index when the light hits the area. This is why it was suggested by Firestart to go back to the sand paper, wet, and sand lightly back up to 2K. You will increase the number of small scratches, and continue to make them smaller until you will gain a polished surface. If you don't have any sand paper or gritted pastes to go higher than 2K (texasknife.com sells polish paper that is 4K, 6K, and 8K), polish the hell out of the blade with Maas. 2K is your limiting grit. Your only control with it is pressure, so go lighter each time.

Remember, even after honing an edge on an 8K surface, while the edge appears to be a mirror surface, with enough mangnification, you'll see the ridges....

Good luck! and if you are using a dremel to polish, and are not that experienced with it, be careful and ask questions....you can easily chip out and ruin the blade before you can react!

C utz

a little Fabulustre on a small buffing wheel or on a dremel will do wonders after that 2000 grit. then rub it down with some maas or simichrome....then watch it sparkle!