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Thread: Dremel Use
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03-10-2013, 07:24 PM #1
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- Oct 2012
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Thanked: 0Dremel Use
Hello All!
I'm new to honing and blade restoration. I've gotten a bunch of $5/$10 blades from antique stores and flea markets, and I'm looking to be able to buff them up. I live in a 1 bedroom apt in Brooklyn, so space is an issue when it comes to tool ownership (did I mention I share these 750 sq.feet with my wife?). Basically I'm restricted to what ever I can keep under my desk or on my windowsill.
That said, I was hoping to put together a basic buffing/polishing kit using a dremel and I wanted to see if there were any recommendations or if anyone has tried it before and can make suggestions for putting together a kit. I'm looking for people to weigh in on dremel model with particular consideration for power/speed control needed, as well as any recommended attachments and compounds used to shine these blades up to new.
Thanks in advance!
--Jim
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03-10-2013, 07:51 PM #2
Don't do it. I've found Dremels and razors don't mix.
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03-10-2013, 08:11 PM #3
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Thanked: 13249Dremels have a bad rep with Razors,,
Most of that comes from improper safety and handling with Newb restorers,, basically it ain't the tool, it is the loose nut behind the tool
If you start the learning process with a heavy bladed razor and learn to bury the edge then Dremels can be great polishing tools..
But if you jump in with both feet into the deep end you will soon find a razor in your hand with a huge chunk blown out of the edge and hopefully not a visit to the ER to dig said chunk of sharp steel out of your eye...
ps: All that being said, I never bring a Dremel near razors
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03-10-2013, 08:20 PM #4
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Thanked: 481For the persons determined to use a dremal type tool for whatever reason, I push really hard for them to consider a professional rotary tool like a Foredom. They have more "umph" behind them, so unlike a dremel which people tend to run at higher speeds (because they tend to slow down with pressure) (which also means your probably pressing to hard) The stronger motors will run at a slower speed without losing power. Of course, they are more pricey than dremels, but you get what you pay for.
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03-10-2013, 08:35 PM #5
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The Following User Says Thank You to Airportcopper For This Useful Post:
Bamsham (03-10-2013)
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03-10-2013, 09:49 PM #6
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Thanked: 50Welcome. I'm in the same situation. Being a bachelor in an apartment, I have a bit more flexibility in terms of acquiring tools and setting aside workspace. However from my experience there are three things that you'll need to look at when you're starting out.
1.) Goal. If you're looking to scale this up to a money making proposition, you'll need shop space and proper tools. If you want to work on your personal restores, then keeping tools and finishing material disposable will have to be a consideration. In a small apartment, when something is brought into the place, something needs to be removed. Have cats? I'd start there.
2.) Storage/Organization. Unless you have a second bedroom for your use alone, you're going to be very limited in the number of tools, raw materials and finishing goods that you'll be able to keep on hand. The aim is to do a good restoration and put the razor back in rotation. It will require the right tool for the right job. Restoring razors can be a remarkably complex process to attain that point that is pleasing to both the eye and the face.
3.) Debris. Any rotating power tool (Dremel, sander, buffer, saw) will create dust and debris. I've tried window fans, vacuums, window fans and vacuums together and the dust is inescapable. Imagine, for a moment, you're working on a razor with all the proper safety gear, glasses, gloves, dust mask, etc. and the wife comes into the kitchen and says "You know that's chicken soup on the stove, right? Who’s going to clean this mess up?" This is a rhetorical question.
Getting back to the main question about the Dremel. Dremel’s have their place but it is my opinion that much of the danger with the tool comes from attachments that are not designed for the needs of the straight razor community. I’ve created a few modifications that, FOR ME, work better than the off the shelf attachments. For grinding, I’ve taken Fibratex medium hand pads and cut them into 1”diameter wheels. This seems to be closer to the inside diameter of the typical hollow ground blade. It also keeps the Dremel spindle away from the edge of the blade as it moves back and forth. I think it is the spindle that causes most of the problems.
For polishing, I do the same with felt that I get from a vendor called Southeast Felt. These can be loaded with various buffing compounds and seem to have a greater working life that the off the shelf Dremel pads.
Use a firm grip on the blade, a light grip on the Dremel.
Again, I repeat, THIS IS WHAT WORKS FOR ME! If you try this, you do so at your own risk.
One of the advantages of hand sanding is the education. You learn the relationship of the grits to the finish without having to be concerned with the metallurgy. You can heat up a blade with a Dremel and some have concerns about altering the temper of the steel in doing so.
And it keeps the wife happier.
Keep at it, have fun, expect to be disappointed at your first attempts and learn from them. You’ll be rewarded.
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The Following User Says Thank You to DGilloon For This Useful Post:
Bamsham (03-10-2013)
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03-11-2013, 05:19 AM #7
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Thanked: 2591Start with hand sanding to get the idea how restoration works before you take the Dremel out.Dremel will work but you have to be careful how you use it.
You need a magnetic jig to keep the razor stable while working with the Dremel.
You need to be aware what direction the wheel spins so avoid accidents with the blade.
Protection is a mustStefan
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03-11-2013, 05:53 AM #8
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Thanked: 1185my 2 cents . If you do ever use one, make sure the wheel is rotating OFF the edge at ALL times. Make sure the edge is down flat, ( a piece of soft wood works) but I like the magnetic idea.
I would also add that doing it by hand has it's risks also. I have had a couple of slices on my finger tips from lack of attention. You won't hurt the blade though.Good judgment comes from experience, and experience....well that comes from poor judgment.
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03-11-2013, 03:43 PM #9
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- Oct 2012
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- Brooklyn, ny
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- 14
Thanked: 0Thanks for the great advice all! I think I'll get some sand paper and do it by hand. See how that comes out and move on to the dremel from there if needed.
Best,
--Jim
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03-10-2013, 08:20 PM #10
I don't really like dremels near razors like Glen said. But I have used them to polish and have posted a thread how I do it .. U have to be very careful and wear ppe and pay attention.. It can work i have had good results.. Or just try some Maas elbow grease and clean microfiber cloth u will b surprised..