Thread: Dremel Use

Hello All!

I'm new to honing and blade restoration. I've gotten a bunch of $5/$10 blades from antique stores and flea markets, and I'm looking to be able to buff them up. I live in a 1 bedroom apt in Brooklyn, so space is an issue when it comes to tool ownership (did I mention I share these 750 sq.feet with my wife?). Basically I'm restricted to what ever I can keep under my desk or on my windowsill.

That said, I was hoping to put together a basic buffing/polishing kit using a dremel and I wanted to see if there were any recommendations or if anyone has tried it before and can make suggestions for putting together a kit. I'm looking for people to weigh in on dremel model with particular consideration for power/speed control needed, as well as any recommended attachments and compounds used to shine these blades up to new.

Thanks in advance!

--Jim

Don't do it. I've found Dremels and razors don't mix.

Dremels have a bad rep with Razors,,

Most of that comes from improper safety and handling with Newb restorers,, basically it ain't the tool, it is the loose nut behind the tool

If you start the learning process with a heavy bladed razor and learn to bury the edge then Dremels can be great polishing tools..

But if you jump in with both feet into the deep end you will soon find a razor in your hand with a huge chunk blown out of the edge and hopefully not a visit to the ER to dig said chunk of sharp steel out of your eye...


ps: All that being said, I never bring a Dremel near razors

I don't really like dremels near razors like Glen said. But I have used them to polish and have posted a thread how I do it .. U have to be very careful and wear ppe and pay attention.. It can work i have had good results.. Or just try some Maas elbow grease and clean microfiber cloth u will b surprised..

For the persons determined to use a dremal type tool for whatever reason, I push really hard for them to consider a professional rotary tool like a Foredom. They have more "umph" behind them, so unlike a dremel which people tend to run at higher speeds (because they tend to slow down with pressure) (which also means your probably pressing to hard) The stronger motors will run at a slower speed without losing power. Of course, they are more pricey than dremels, but you get what you pay for.

http://straightrazorpalace.com/works...polishing.html

Welcome. I'm in the same situation. Being a bachelor in an apartment, I have a bit more flexibility in terms of acquiring tools and setting aside workspace. However from my experience there are three things that you'll need to look at when you're starting out.

1.) Goal. If you're looking to scale this up to a money making proposition, you'll need shop space and proper tools. If you want to work on your personal restores, then keeping tools and finishing material disposable will have to be a consideration. In a small apartment, when something is brought into the place, something needs to be removed. Have cats? I'd start there.

2.) Storage/Organization. Unless you have a second bedroom for your use alone, you're going to be very limited in the number of tools, raw materials and finishing goods that you'll be able to keep on hand. The aim is to do a good restoration and put the razor back in rotation. It will require the right tool for the right job. Restoring razors can be a remarkably complex process to attain that point that is pleasing to both the eye and the face.

3.) Debris. Any rotating power tool (Dremel, sander, buffer, saw) will create dust and debris. I've tried window fans, vacuums, window fans and vacuums together and the dust is inescapable. Imagine, for a moment, you're working on a razor with all the proper safety gear, glasses, gloves, dust mask, etc. and the wife comes into the kitchen and says "You know that's chicken soup on the stove, right? Who’s going to clean this mess up?" This is a rhetorical question.

Getting back to the main question about the Dremel. Dremel’s have their place but it is my opinion that much of the danger with the tool comes from attachments that are not designed for the needs of the straight razor community. I’ve created a few modifications that, FOR ME, work better than the off the shelf attachments. For grinding, I’ve taken Fibratex medium hand pads and cut them into 1”diameter wheels. This seems to be closer to the inside diameter of the typical hollow ground blade. It also keeps the Dremel spindle away from the edge of the blade as it moves back and forth. I think it is the spindle that causes most of the problems.

For polishing, I do the same with felt that I get from a vendor called Southeast Felt. These can be loaded with various buffing compounds and seem to have a greater working life that the off the shelf Dremel pads.

Use a firm grip on the blade, a light grip on the Dremel.

Again, I repeat, THIS IS WHAT WORKS FOR ME! If you try this, you do so at your own risk.

One of the advantages of hand sanding is the education. You learn the relationship of the grits to the finish without having to be concerned with the metallurgy. You can heat up a blade with a Dremel and some have concerns about altering the temper of the steel in doing so.

And it keeps the wife happier.

Keep at it, have fun, expect to be disappointed at your first attempts and learn from them. You’ll be rewarded.

Originally Posted by Bamsham

Hello All!

I'm new to honing and blade restoration. I've gotten a bunch of $5/$10 blades from antique stores and flea markets, and I'm looking to be able to buff them up. I live in a 1 bedroom apt in Brooklyn, so space is an issue when it comes to tool ownership (did I mention I share these 750 sq.feet with my wife?). Basically I'm restricted to what ever I can keep under my desk or on my windowsill.

That said, I was hoping to put together a basic buffing/polishing kit using a dremel and I wanted to see if there were any recommendations or if anyone has tried it before and can make suggestions for putting together a kit. I'm looking for people to weigh in on dremel model with particular consideration for power/speed control needed, as well as any recommended attachments and compounds used to shine these blades up to new.

Thanks in advance!

--Jim

I have never tried to polish a blade with a power device. I more or less accept what I can polish by hand.

What I have used a dremel for is to help get rid of the old glue when I'm replacing the knot in a brush handle. When I burned a hole in a beautiful handle and destroyed it with a dremel, I switched to using a drill with a dremel bit because I find it isn't as powerful. With the drill the glue didn't get as hot and I was better able to back off before doing any damage.

You didn't ask this but I'll chip this piece of advice in on replacing brush knots. I've gotten to where I gorge it with Devcon epoxy and let it cure a week. I used to use epoxy sparingly and let it cure 24 hours. I'm posting this because a new knot came loose in a beautiful handle and I ruined that handle trying to re-knot the brush.

Before you buy tools and try to restore razors in a tiny space you should rent or borrow the equipment and attempt one. I have used a Dremel in the backyard to wire wheel some dirt/grease out of some jimps and rust off a blade and stuff flies everywhere. You will need ppe if you enjoy the use of your eyeballs!

Dremels also make blades very hot very fast when polishing so you will need to constantly dip then buff, dip then buff, it is tedious.

Rent or borrow first is my advice, if you like it you can always find a small grinding/buffing machine that can do the job faster, easier and better.

I also just pulled a wire splinter out of my toddlers foot that came off the Dremel and my queen has demanded no more razor work until I build a space. So consider how the bride is going to react to dust, splinters and buffing compound splattered across the window! In my case, over the short term it sucks but long term it rocks because I now have the ok to build a custom 12x10 workshop in the back. Good luck!

Start with hand sanding to get the idea how restoration works before you take the Dremel out.Dremel will work but you have to be careful how you use it.

You need a magnetic jig to keep the razor stable while working with the Dremel.
You need to be aware what direction the wheel spins so avoid accidents with the blade.
Protection is a must